The Spice Chronicles

I’m half asleep when our flight lands at 5AM in Tbilisi (pronounced tuh-blee-see). We disembark in a daze. Never sure if it’s because I’ve stuffed my swollen feet back into shoes or just an uneven surface, but it’s not the first time I stumble on the jet bridge leading to the terminal. Silently, I prompt myself, “Pick up your feet!”

Long corridors with unintelligible signs lead to the Immigration window of our choice. No lines, hardly any people; unlike arriving in any other country capital (pre-coronavirus that is). The officer smiles and says, “Good morning.” I stare at her in disbelief while she scans my passport. Almost immediately, she stamps a page, hands it back to me with an enthusiastic, “Welcome to Georgia,” simultaneously placing a small bottle on the counter. As I turn away, she calls after me, “For you take! [sic]” I fumble a thank you then pass through the gate, still processing the most hospitable welcome I have ever received from an immigration officer, when I realize that I am holding a 250 ml/8 oz bottle of red wine! The kicker is the label:

At baggage claim, a woman in a smart suit, carrying an iPad, rushes forth and in perfect English asks if we need a taxi. Not at all prepared for such assertive behavior, I wave her off while we collect our bags. She takes no offense and says, “When you’re ready, I will be happy to direct you to an official airport taxi. If you are going to the center, the fixed price is 40 Gel,” (about 13 euros for the 30 minute ride). We are used to being accosted for transportation, but never has it been so polite and precise. In the Arrivals hall, while we get our bearings and some local cash (Georgian Lari), several men offer rides, none of which seem legit, and the language barrier is just too taxing at this hour. I hail the woman who happens to be in my line of sight and in a flash we’re on our way. In the following days, we discover Bolt, Georgia’s version of Uber. Although we paid a fair price for the airport taxi, nothing rivals Bolt, and they accept cash. Despite ridiculously cheap fares anywhere in the city, we end up using the service only a couple of times as Tbilisi, though hilly, is quite walkable and the activity tracker on my wrist has successfully brainwashed me with 10,000-step guilt.

Hello Kitty mascot walking on Rustaveli Avenue, Tbilisi

View of Tbilisi from Narikala Fortress

View of Rike Park and the ultra-modern Peace Bridge

Home for the next few weeks is a sparsely furnished but well-equipped one-bedroom apartment in the center near Rustaveli metro station. Our early arrival instructions are to pick up the keys at the small hotel next door except, there is no envelope with my name and the night receptionist doesn’t know anything about keys! Trying to contain my impatient, exhausted tourist tone, I’m about to phone and likely wake up the Airbnb host when the woman says, “Wait! Try this one, it doesn’t look like one of ours.” Thankfully, the key works.

There’s a really nice welcome note with essential information and helpful tips. The bedroom has large windows and a beautiful wood floor, the bathroom is modern with a washing machine and there’s a combination kitchen/dining/living area in the back that faces an interior courtyard and probably doesn’t get much sunlight, but for $22/night, we cannot believe our luck.

Our quiet street is very old and very steep. I figure, the craggy stones that penetrate my soles must have been placed purposefully to give horses/carts/cars traction and maybe even to drain rainwater. Whatever the reason, forget anything but comfortable shoes in this city.

Entrance to our apartment, Tbilisi

We are about 100 meters from Shota Rustaveli, the central avenue of Tbilisi, named after a Georgian poet. The National Opera Theater, Museum of Fine Arts, upscale hotels and government buildings sit on either side of this elegant, lively avenue that descends to Freedom (aka Liberty) Square. The architecture is a mix of Renaissance Baroque, Neo-Moorish, Socialist Classicism, Art Nouveau... People selling everything from jewelry, books, Soviet memorabilia and crappy souvenirs line the street above and below ground. Peaceful protestors are camped out in tents in front of the Parliament building as a reminder that conflict with Russia and other civil issues persist, but for the most part, the atmosphere seems rather joyous. There are street musicians everywhere and people seem to really enjoy stopping to listen and socialize.

Drinks for sale on the street

A woman baking Puri, traditional Georgian bread, at a window-service-only shop

Men playing backgammon in a park

Anchiskhati Basilica

The Clock Tower and Puppet Theater

Ladies squeeze fresh pomegranate juice on every corner

A woman selling churchkehela, traditional candle-shaped sweets, out of an old baby carriage that looks like an homage to the Odessa Steps scene in Battleship Potemkin

Dried persimmons aka kakis

Shopping stalls in underground passageways

Graffiti in one of the many underground street crossings

Not nearly as bad as Delhi or Beijing, the air quality is certainly questionable. Car exhaust, a gritty residue on the pavement and people smoking everywhere are negative points, but we are loving Tbilisi from day one!

An interesting list of restrictions

The stairs leading into the charming Linville Restaurant, are as uneven as a carnival fun house!

That’s some selfie!

Dogs in Tbilisi are tagged and cared for by local associations

The city has a long, complicated history; Arab, Mongol, Persian, Russian. Every invader destroyed, built, and left their style. Old Town is a squeeze of cobblestone streets and tightly stacked, balconied buildings, holding one another up. As the world takes notice of Georgia as a destination, Tbilisi is getting a facelift and within the next couple of years, construction debris will give way to beautifully restored historic neighborhoods with tasteful modern accents.

Old Tbilisi under renovation

Typical wooden structure with stained glass motifs

Piles of construction debris on the street

Renovation with a modern twist

Tbilisi is built over natural hot springs rich in sulphur, purported to have many health benefits. There are at least six bath houses to choose from. Having done no research, and dulled by the recent experience in Budapest, I walk into the two most famous places. Pretty much put off by the atmosphere and the smell of cigarette smoke, I walk out thinking I’ll have to research this more given so many favorable reviews, but I keep postponing and ultimately never get around to it. It will be a priority when we come back, and we will be back.

Domes of the Royal (sulphur) Baths with (4th c.) Narikala Fortress in the background

Meidan Bazaar, the ancient underground market in Old Tbilisi has become a tourist attraction

People on the street

Sioni Cathedral

Forget any attempt to understand Georgian. It has a unique alphabet. Even Google Translate is at a loss. Fortunately, many restaurants and cafes display the English translation and people are so friendly, it is never a problem. There is always someone who speaks enough English, sometimes even French. While we have a full kitchen and several supermarkets nearby, plentiful food is so cheap in restaurants, we end up only making breakfast in the apartment. Within a week we have a list of favorite cafes and restaurants on both sides of the Mtkvari (Kura) River and have settled into a routine: Late morning cappuccinos (and sometimes a delicious pastry) at Puri Giuliani or Gala, “work” for a few hours, then order or walk over to Strada or Radio Cafe for lunch, “work” a bit more or take a walk to discover other parts of the city before heading to another restaurant to “work” some more before dinner.

The cappuccino comes with good advice at Radio Cafe

Puri Guliani is never too busy in the morning

Sinful pastries including the pomegranate bomb!

Organic greens and duck pate

Strada Cafe

Fabrika, a renovated factory housing shops, restaurants and the city’s hippest hostel

Buildings near Fabrika, ripe for renovation

Humorous street art

Even Santa Claus needs a break

Rooms Hotel, older sister of uber-cool Stamba Hotel, both situated in a former publishing house

For a fancier dinner (36 euros including wine and service), we head to Republic Restaurant overlooking Revolution Square. It’s not quite as copious as most restaurants in Tbilisi, but the food is delicious and the views...

Kupati sausage with mushroom sauce and pomegranate reduction and cochon de lait with celery cream and plum sauce

View of a Christmas market from Republic Restaurant

As December unfolds, large crews work day and night setting up stages around the city. A full schedule of DJs, concerts and holiday festivities lead up to an extravagant live television broadcast on New Years Eve just a few blocks from the apartment. After an unbelievable display of fireworks, we stand in the street among thousands of spectators to watch the show. While we don’t understand the banter between the elegant hosts, who change costume in between every act, the impersonations of stars like Lady Gaga, Michael Jackson and Chaka Khan are hyperrealistic and beautifully executed.

New Year’s Eve fireworks and live show on Rustaveli Avenue

Celebrations continue well into January. Every day at dusk, somewhere, someone flips a switch bathing Rustaveli Avenue in a cosmic theme made of a million tiny lights. Crowds stroll along the avenue and partake in a host of seasonal activities.

View of Rustaveli Avenue

Keeping warm at one of the Christmas markets

Fire artist on Rustaveli Avenue

Georgians love to eat and drink. There are restaurants and cafes every few feet serving delectable, carb-heavy dishes. The bread, alone or filled with eggs and cheese (Kachapuri) or beans (Lobiani) is divine. Walnuts are a staple ingredient often combined with eggplant, spinach or beets (Pkhali), and thick creamy soups of mushroom or pumpkin will warm your soul. Pomegranate seeds decorate virtually every dish.

Khachapuri and Lobiani at Puri Guliani

Traditional Georgian Pkhali and Ojakhuri (pork with potatoes and onions) at Radio Cafe

Sinfully creamy pumpkin soup and Khinkali, traditional Georgian dumplings stuffed with pork and onions

And then there is the wine. Georgians have been making it since 6000 BC! Supermarket shelves seem to stock more alcohol than food and there are always tasting stands. Locals favor the many varieties of sweet and semi-sweet wines, but we quickly develop a liking for the dry reds made from Saperavi grapes. At 8000 Vintages, you can shop for and taste wines in the front of the store, or sit down and enjoy one of several platters featuring local cheeses, cured meats, exceptional olives and creamy spreads to accompany a bottle.

Mezzo platter and fine red at 8000 Vintages, wine shop and restaurant

Over 80% of Georgians are Orthodox Christians, and they celebrate Christmas on (or around) January 7th according to the Julian calendar. The principal event in Tbilisi on this day is Alilo, a traditional procession led by children that descends Rustaveli Avenue to Freedom Square crosses the Baratashvili Bridge and makes its way uphill, culminating at the massive Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity) Cathedral. Along the route, children collect gifts and candy to be distributed to orphanages and communities in need.

Alilo procession, Orthodox Christmas, Liberty Square

A woman shows us her Christmas doll

Brothers on their way to Holy Trinity Cathedral on Orthodox Christmas

Tsminda Sameba (Holy Trinity) Cathedral dominates the neighborhood of Avlabari and Tbilisi’s skyline

Alilo procession on the steps of the cathedral

Inside Holy Trinity Cathedral on Orthodox Christmas

A priest standing on scaffolding in the cathedral

Throughout the city center, tour operators and freelance drivers hawk day trips and packages, restaurants and cafes place people out front to entice you in, etc. It is slightly annoying, because we walk by the same people often and the pitch never varies, but it’s always delivered with a smile and rather than insist, they usually wish us a pleasant stay. One day, a nice looking man standing next to a van mumbles in French as we pass by. Something about his gentle demeanor catches our attention. We’ve decided to check out Gudauri, the country’s largest ski resort two hours away, and he’s the man to take us there.

With a ride and an Airbnb booked, we need ski clothes! The sporting goods shops at Galleria Mall on Rustaveli are expensive (especially since we will leave most of our purchases behind). A search brings up Snowy Mountains ski shop, not far from Dinamo Arena (stadium) and Dezerter Bazaar, Tbilisi’s largest market.

Vendors at Deserter Bazaar. Can you believe those radishes?!

For $35 dollars, we get ski pants and gloves but their jackets are ugly and I hold out for something that I can wear off the slopes as well. We take a Bolt (10 Gel, about $4 for the 20-minute drive) to East Point Mall where we find jackets and winter boots for peanuts. And that is the only positive aspect of that mall especially when I realize that all the stores there have branches on Rustaveli Avenue near our apartment!

Ananuri Castle on the road to Gudauri

Gudauri sits on a south-facing plateau, perpetually bathed in sun, in the Caucasus Mountains. The town is divided in 2 parts, old and new; new being the cluster of condos and hotels that has sprouted around the main gondola. It is entirely possible to stay down valley or at hotels and developments along the road in, but why bother when you can ski in/out of your lodging and walk no more than 5 minutes to a variety of bars, restaurants, shops and spas. The resort itself (2196m/7205 ft.) lacks charm but the surrounding mountains and views are stupendous.

New Gudauri ski resort

Center of New Gudauri

Prepping the après-ski BBQ

Our spacious, fully-equipped studio is bright and comfortable and comes with an extremely convenient ski locker on the ground floor. Equipment rental is about 11 euros/day and the lift ticket is a mere 15 euros/day.

Studio apartment at Red Co. 2, New Gudauri (53 euros/night)

There is just one small problem, there isn’t much snow! The bottom half of the mountain Is rocky but fortunately, the top (3279 m/10,757 ft.) is fine and all the lifts are open. Over our two-week stay, we get a few inches of fresh powder here and there, and the quality of the snow is fantastic. The runs are blissful for beginners and intermediate skiers and they are empty! Weekends get a little more crowded, but not much. The gondolas and lifts are brand new. Some chair lifts even have an optional, transparent shield that you can pull down for extra protection on windy or cold days.

Midway on the mountain

View of the resort from the gondola

Tip: Bring basic first aid items as (for the moment) there is no pharmacy (or doctor) in New Gudauri. Medics and ambulances are on standby at all times, but for non-emergencies, you’ll need to taxi or Bolt down the mountain.

There are some black runs and heliskiing options for expert skiers and paragliding is also hugely popular. For 4 euros roundtrip, non-skiers are welcome to ride the gondola up and hang out at the restaurants and bars on the mountain. Though infrastructure is rudimentary at the top (only a couple of outhouses) and food outlets are pretty basic structures, there are tables, chairs, loungers, beanbags and the most incredible vibe. People are dancing in their boots, waiters are extremely friendly, food is good and the sun shines endlessly.

Food, drinks, good music, chilling in the sun,

and watching the paragliders

There are plenty of good restaurants in the resort and they are so reasonable, we eat out every night. One night after dinner, we wander into a bar/restaurant called The Drunken Cherry. What a find! There is a Georgian woman belting out, Adele, Amy Winehouse, Janis Joplin, you name it, interspersed with a DJ mixing everything from rock to disco and hip-hop. There are families with kids, young adults and older people like us. Bartenders and waiters dance as they mix and serve, and everyone is just having a fantastic time.

Doing shots with our favorite bartender at The Drunken Cherry

After two weeks in Gudauri, it’s time to leave, but we are already planning to come back next winter, relishing the thought of how great the skiing will be with more snow.

Gorgeous Gudauri

Dragging our feet, we head back to Tbilisi for a couple of nights before flying out, We’ve spent a month in Georgia and only visited two places. There is so much more to discover the next time around. Can’t wait!

This road trip starts with a short bus ride (1.5 hours) from Trieste, Italy to Ljubljana, Slovenia.

Crosswalk with a poignant message, Ljubljana

The weather is a bit soggy and yet, Ljubljana is so pretty and charming. The Ljubljanica River winds through the town separating the historic center from the modern city by sculpted bridges. Every angle, from street level to rooftop, offers a photo opp.

Ljubljana, Slovenia

People are overly friendly: at the laundromat a guy wishes us, “a nice stay in my country.“ When we’re ready to move on, our Airbnb hostess offers plenty of advice on what to visit in the rest of Slovenia and sends us off to the airport with GoOpti, an efficient ride service, to pick up a rental car for the next 6 weeks. We’ve scored an excellent deal for 13,50 eu/day. Tip: take the highway vignette from the rental agency as it is required as soon as you leave the airport.

Once we master the interior and exterior lane configuration on roundabouts, we head toward Bled, famous for its church in the middle of the lake. Even in the pouring rain, it’s lovely.

Church on Lake Bled

Distances in Slovenia are super short, so we decide to push on toward Bohinj whose much larger lake sits within Triglav National Park. The landscape is one of flooded fields and submerged trees holding ground against a raging river.

Triglav National Park

Surprisingly, the tourist information office In Bohinj is open and they offer to make some calls on our behalf for a place to spend the night, but prices are very high; hard to believe given the (seriously) off season. We continue and stop at a restaurant that looks like it may also be a motel. I cringe at the offer of a dorm room with shared bath, and prepare to drive away when a guy comes out and explains that if we don’t mind construction debris in the hallway, they have a new double room for a reasonable 44 euros with breakfast. Oops, forgot to take the photo...

The rain refuses to subside as we approach Vrsic Pass. Built by Russian prisoners of war during WWI, the 50 hairpin turns of cobblestone are a test for weak stomachs. At this time of year and with dreary weather, we cross maybe three cars. Not sure I’d want to be here in the summer when motorhomes and cyclists share the narrow road. It is snowing at the top. As we descend through clouds and fog, the autumn colors and turquoise water bursting forth on the Soca River make for jaw-dropping scenery. And OMG, there is an adventure junkie, kayaking solo in this insanity!

Man vs. wild!

Along the Soca River near Bovec

Accommodations in Bovec are either closed or too expensive so we move on to Kobarid. The center of this tiny town is at the intersection of three roads. There are a couple of closed hotels and as many restaurants, but we manage to find an Airbnb overlooking the roundabout. The apartment is modern and spacious ($54/night).

Apartment, Kobarid

Locals at a cafe in Kobarid

The short hike to Kozjak Waterfall is pretty easy until the last bit where it becomes clear that (at the very least) my feet are going to be soaked in icy water. I hang back to hear if it’s worth it and ultimately decide to wait for the photos.

Hiking to Kozjak waterfall

50 shades of moss

Kozjak waterfall near Kobarid

Check out the heart-shaped boulder just hanging there! Tolmin Gorges

Tolminska Korita - Tolmin Gorges

View of the valley from Tolmin Gorges

Finding a place to sleep is becoming a daily challenge. We want to move on but the few affordable places on the various booking sites all lead back to Kobarid. We end up in a cozy duplex in Idrsko for $38. I’m not sure there is even a village as the address is on the main road near Kobarid. Like everywhere in Slovenia, the hospitality is extraordinary.

Apartment in Idrsko, Slovenia

The drive to Piran, a picturesque resort town on the southwestern tip of the country, takes us through wine country. Stormy weather prevails, but the scenery is beautiful. We stop to visit the fortified village of Stanjel built in the 17th century to defend against Ottoman invaders.

Stanjel, Slovenia

A well in the center of Stanjel

View from the castle in Stanjel

Dominated by the Venetians for over 500 years, the Italian influence on the seaside town of Piran is omnipresent in the architecture and number of spaghetterias!

View of Piran, Slovenia

Cars are not allowed in the historic center, making parking the key amenity in the hotel search. VIP Residence has a distinctly Italian feel. The studio is bright white and modern with a small kitchen and giant flat-screen TV. What a treat! Our room opens onto the pool (wrong season) with a gorgeous view of the Adriatic Sea in the distance. It’s so nice, we stay a few nights. (50 eu/night).

VIP Residence, Piran

View from the room

During the day we visit Piran and Portoroz and spend the evenings in our studio surfing satellite channels.

Piran, Slovenia

Narrow streets off the main square in Piran

It’s 500 kms to Budapest. Signs on the highway remind you to stop for the Hungarian highway vignette before crossing the border.

An electronic code releases the thick wooden door into a long dark corridor that opens into an interior courtyard typical of many buildings in Budapest. Our refurbished, fully-equipped studio off to the left is 25 eu/night.

Interior courtyard Hi5 Apartments Budapest, Hungary

Studio Hi5 Apartments, Budapest

Austro-Hungarian architecture and delicate Art Nouveau designs alternate with less attractive modern constructions in a mix of funk and opulence.

Heroes’ Square, Budapest

Vorosmarty Square, Budapest

Painted doorway, Budapest

Little Princess statue, Budapest

Hungarian Parliament, Budapest

Saint Stephen’s Basilica, Budapest

I have never seen a synagogue with an organ and a pulpit! The architect of Dohany Street Synagogue, aka Great Synagogue of Budapest (considered to be one, if not the largest in Europe), purposely incorporated several architectural styles to illustrate the multitude of ethnicities related to the Israelites.

Dohany Street Synagogue, Budapest

Café Gerbeaud, Budapest

The stunning Gresham Palace, now a Four Seasons Hotel

Nearby, we walk across the Chain Bridge to the Buda side of the city.

As we navigate the steep climb to Buda Castle, noise just fades away. It’s startling how peaceful this side of the river is. And the views...

Fisherman’s Bastion, Buda Castle, Budapest

View of the Parliament from Buda Castle, Budapest

It’s our last day in Budapest and perfect weather for a spa binge! The entrance fee at the enormous Szechenyi Baths is 19 euros. Tip: bring soap, towel, slippers, etc., as everything is extra. The yellow Neo-Baroque building is beautiful and the old-fashioned changing cabins are quirky, but overall the place feels like a sanitarium, especially the indoor sections where you (and too many others) soak in basins of still, mineral-infused water. The gigantic outdoor pools, with steam rising from the surface to meet the crisp November air against the majestic backdrop, are much more inviting.

Men playing chess in the water at Szechenyi Baths

With no time to waste, it’s off to the Gellért Thermal Bath across the river in Buda. Much smaller, the indoor pool feels like you are swimming in a Greco-Roman temple.

But it is the hot thermal baths on either side that attract most visitors.

Gellert Thermal Bath, Budapest

I soak, steam and sauna into a prune. Two spas in one day is my record, but while the baths in Budapest are an institution, for the record, I preferred the Korean spa experience (click my post 123 Kimcheeeeeee).

Bratislava, Slovakia is a 2.5 hour drive from Budapest through rather boring scenery. As more and more cities discourage cars, we look for accommodations with parking. The large, super-equipped apartment ($40/night) is in an austere neighborhood about 20 minutes on foot from the historical center.

Exterior of our apartment building, Bratislava, Slovakia

Apartment, Bratislava

Old Town, the historic center of Bratislava, is quite pretty and filled with cafes and restaurants.

Pedestrian streets of Old Town, Bratislava

Cafe in Old Town, Bratislava

The views from Bratislava Castle are worth the hike.

View of St. Martin’s Cathedral

View of Bratislava from the castle

It’s another 2.5 hours to Vienna. By now we are drilled to purchase the highway vignette before crossing (relatively) invisible borders. The apartment outside the center is compact but well-equipped (45 eu/night) with parking nearby for 5 euros per day. It’s a 4th floor walk up! Missed that detail when I was booking. The area, Meidling, is quiet, with nondescript shops and cafes on a long pedestrian street. It’s a healthy 20-minute walk to the Schonbrunn Palace, home of Empress Elizabeth of Austria better known as Sisi. The tour of 40 rooms (20 eu pp) is a pleasure with an excellent audio guide and classic music track. We are way off season so there are not many tourists. The downside is that the magnificent gardens are bare and the fountains still.

Schonbrunn Palace, Vienna, Austria

The metro station is around the corner from the apartment and within 15 minutes we are at Stephansplatz. No matter where you look, the architecture is dazzling and all the buildings look like they’ve just been cleaned. Many of the streets in the center are pedestrian. While the grandeur of the Baroque architecture and modern constructions give an imposing feeling, the city is really not that big. Within a day, we have walked most of it.
Tip: skip the expensive (yellow) tourist tram and ride the public trams.

Vienna, Austria

St. Stephen’s Cathedral on Stephansplatz, Vienna

Inside St. Stephen’s Cathedral, Vienna

St. Peter’s Church, Vienna

Horse-drawn carriage in front of Hofburg Palace, Vienna

By chance, the Jewish Museum is holding an exhibition of the Ephrussi family collection, made famous by artist Edmund de Waal (great grandson of Viktor von Ephrussi, the prominent Jewish banker forced to flee Vienna under Hitler) in his must-read memoire, The Hare with the Amber Eyes. The cornerstone of the exhibition (and the book) is the collection of over 200 Japanese Netsuke that survived the war and moved across continents before settling as de Waal’s inheritance. I practically run to see it.

Ivory and wood Netsuke from the Ephrussi collection, Vienna, Austria

As a bonus, the ticket gives you entrance to the other Jewish Museum, site of the archeological excavation of the city’s first synagogue (built in the mid-13th century/destroyed in 1420), discovered beneath Judenplatz (square) in 1995 during construction of the memorial to the victims of the Holocaust.

Judenplatz, Vienna

If there is one thing to eat in Vienna, it’s Wiener schnitzel. Finding the right place is challenging as many are too touristy or too crowded. Cafe Bieradies on Judenplatz, looks inviting. The crisp, oversized schnitzel, is absolutely divine as is the Tafelspitz a boiled beef dish favored by Emperor Franz Joseph I. Washed down with an odd mix of light and dark beer, the delicious meal takes two days to digest!

Wiener schnitzel

Tafelspitz, beef stew

Of course Viennese pastries are also world-renowned and there is no shortage of tempting cafes. People line up at the well-known places.

Cafe Central, Vienna

Street musicians, Vienna

The drive to Poland takes 4.5 hours. As we near the southwest border, a bad smell permeates the car. Welcome to the Silesia region where coal mining remains prevalent.

Our apartment is a 10-minute drive from the center of the capital, Katowice, in a cluster of modern hi-rises. The large one-bedroom is quite stylish and comfortable ($33/night) but as soon as you step out, the urge to cough is overwhelming.

Park Apartment, Katowice

Silesia City Center Mall (built around a former coal mine) has all the name brands, restaurants, a food court and a hypermarket. It is packed with people. The only explanation in this economically-depressed region is that the air is fresher inside!

Having rented many, many apartments since we started this trip seven years ago, I’ve come to the conclusion that while spaces are usually clean, dishes and cutlery, are not. Tired of scouring other people’s pots and pans, we decide to invest in a few kitchen items; non-stick pan, spatula, bottle opener, but my excitement to fry eggs fizzles when for the life of me I cannot get the induction stove to heat. Who knew that not all pans work with all stove tops?!

Vendor selling holiday sweets, Katowice

Coal-themed ride at the Christmas market, Katowice

Old street in Katowice

Mural of activist Wojciech Korfanty, Katowice

A hard hat is mandatory to visit the Guido Coal Mine, now a tourist attraction. The (required) tour is only in Polish today. The rickety metal cage that sends you 320 meters below ground under the light of a fickle bulb is an experience in itself. Despite the language barrier, the visit is fascinating. And those hats really are vital as I repeatedly knock into infrastructure. After a couple of hours, the guide leads us into a cafe area, makes a few gestures and points at a clock. The group scatters and we figure we’ve got 20 minutes or so for a pit stop. When it starts to feel too long, I ask the bartender who explains, the tour was over 30 minutes ago! We’ll have to wait until they close the bar to ride back to the surface with the staff. Might as well have a beer!

Guido Mine and Coal Mining Museum, Zabrze, Poland

Nikiszowiec, former coal miners settlement, Katowice

No matter what you’ve seen or read, there are few words to aptly describe a visit to Auschwitz and Birkenau concentration camps. That negationist theories even exist is unimaginable. For added misery, it’s an ice-cold, rainy day with a biting wind. I don’t dare complain. Tip: if you are visiting on your own, you must get there before 10AM as there are limited individual tickets. We breeze through, but plan accordingly in high season.

Entrance gate Auschwitz, Oświęcim, Poland

Back at the apartment in Katowice, our hosts have kindly left us a DVD player since all the TV channels are in Polish. To end the gut-wrenching day it seems only fitting to watch Schindler’s List. Shudder...

On the short drive to Krakow (80 kms) we stop to see an installation by a local non-profit that is monitoring and taking measures to educate the public on the hazardous effects of burning coal to heat homes. In front of a school, they have installed artificial lungs made of a porous material with a fan system that filters the air through. The lungs are white and clean on the first day. We’ll be back in two weeks to see how they have fared.

Our apartment (32 eu/night) is on the edge of Krakow’s historic center.

Apartment Elinor, Krakow, Poland

We park in front to unload luggage. In the time that takes, a parking officer has encoded a ticket. The great thing about modern technology is that once we’ve made our case, he agrees to cancel the ticket with a swipe. We have to pay him to do so, but it’s a third of the price of the ticket. We accept it as a win/win.

Bonus: the frying pan works in this kitchen!

Historic center, Krakow

Cafe Lajkonik, Krakow

Street Art, Krakow

This dragon blows fire if you wait for it!

Air quality in Krakow is measurably better than Katowice given stringent regulations on burning coal. Rynek Square, is magical in the evening. Decorative horse carriages and cafes sparkle in the cold air.

Rynek Glowny, Europe’s largest medieval town square, Krakow

Horse-drawn carriages, Rynek Glowny Main Square, Krakow

Misty night on Krakow’s Main Square

The Jewish ghetto aka Kazmierz, is anything but a ghetto. Many of the buildings have been remodeled and the streets are filled with trendy restaurants and bars.

Utica Krokodyli Pub, Krakow

Craft beer at Krokodyli

Not everyone is happy that this former synagogue is now Havre Cafe, Krakow

This heartbreaking installation in Heroes’ Square commemorates the thousands of Jews who were sent to Auschwitz from here. In addition to one suitcase, many residents took a chair to “have a place to sit in their new home”...

Hereos’ Square, Krakow, Poland

On one corner of the square, this authentic pharmacy offers an interactive glimpse into the Polish pharmacist and his staff who took great risks to help Jews. It’s a fun museum that recounts a sober story.

Eagle Pharmacy, Krakow, Poland

Street Art “Ding, Dong, Dumb” Krakow, Poland

The Schindler Factory is literally crammed with information, photos and exhibits, but not at all what I expected. The layout, which offers no views of the actual factory floor, leaves me disappointed. Right next door is the Museum of Contemporary Art Krakow (MOCAK). Worth the visit if you like contemporary installations.

Zamosc is a colorful place about 3.5 hours from Krakow, listed by UNESCO for its Renaissance town planning. There’s hardly a soul on the main square on this frigid Sunday afternoon, but it’s easy to picture the filled terraces of summer. It’s very, very pretty.

Great Market Square, Zamosc, Poland

As we walk around, we notice that some of the cafes are open but you need to push past heavy doors to enter. Seems like the whole town is at Bohema Cafe. I had read reviews about their hot chocolate; a steaming cup of pure liquid cocoa. Your veins actually change color!

Ladies at Cafe Bohema

The days are at their shortest now and we’ve developed a routine for visits. The majority of photos are taken at dusk between 3:45PM and 4:15PM. Then it’s “home” or to a cafe/bar for a couple of hours to “work” before dinner. There are virtually no other tourists.

Our apartment is fitted with a huge smart TV. It takes persistence, but eventually, I figure out how to change the menus to English and consequently I am able to select original language and lose the Polish dubbing on some of the channels. At night, we binge on movies and nature documentaries. This newfound skill in TV technology will prove invaluable from here on in.

We take local roads to get to Warsaw where we’ve booked a cute studio in Old Praga, the hip neighborhood on the eastern side of the Vistula River.

Studio Old Praga neighborhood, Warsaw

Warsaw is completely rebuilt but many of the buildings look old. It’s less quaint than Krakow but still quite enjoyable.

City walls of Warsaw

Old Town, Warsaw

Cafe, Old Town, Warsaw

Markings on the ground illustrate the former boundary of the Jewish ghetto, Warsaw

Place your order at the window

and pay the cashier at Bar Pod Barbakamen, Warsaw

Traditional Polish pierogis with meat filling

A stern warning in the metro!

Nozyk Synagogue, Warsaw

The synagogue wedged between tall, modern buildings

Palace of Culture and Science, Warsaw

It always seems to take about 3.5 hours to get to the next destination and the drives have become ritualistic: prepare a tupperware with a healthy salad and stop at McDonald’s (most highway rest stops have a KFC, Burger King, etc.) for some french fries to accompany and a cappuccino to finish.

From the brand new apartment in Gdańsk, it’s a short walk to the old town.

Apartment Chmielna Park 2, Gdansk, Poland

The historic center is predominantly pedestrian with cobblestone streets and townhouses. Kind of a cross between Amsterdam and Bruges. There are many cafes, restaurants and typical red-brick churches. Christmas decorations have just been installed and by late afternoon, the town shimmers.

Gdansk, Poland

Amber is the stone of choice in many shops

Old Town, Gdansk, Poland

Gdansk’s most famous citizen is Lech Walesa, the electrician who rose to stardom peacefully protesting and negotiating with the government, leading to the fall of communism in Poland and eventually throughout Europe. The European Solidarity Centre (5 eur pp) is a wonderful museum, presenting the timeline of events led by Walesa. On the way to it, we stumble into Gdansk Shipyard and follow a map with points of interest. The vast area, under renovation, will be transformed into a modern urban center with housing, shops, and restaurants. We’re told that the city is working closely with developers to maintain the integrity of this iconic place. This impromptu shipyard discovery makes the museum visit that much more interesting.

Gdansk Shipyard, Poland

The photo, part of an outdoor exhibition at the shipyard, depicts Lech Walesa being carried by his peers in celebration in front of this very building

Add your note to the thousands that make up the Solidarity Wall at the European Solidarity Centre, Gdansk

The audio guide at the museum is phenomenal. As you enter each room, the system trips the commentary. No fumbling with numbers, no wondering if you’re in the right place. Really well done.

With a little more than a week to make our way back to Slovenia, we stop in Poznan, Poland for two nights. The cute studio is 24 euros/night. Do not be misled by the crumbling entrance. As with more and more places, it’s self check-in and always tricky figuring out the instructions - codes, lock boxes...

“White” studio by Stay 99, Poznan

Yet another beautiful square.

Views of Stary Rynek, Old Market Square, Poznan, Poland

Pub Guliwer on the square, Poznan

Parish Church of St. Stanislaus, Poznan

We drive back thru Krakow and stop by the school to see how the artificial lungs look. After just 14 days, the results are devastating. Changing attitudes in a country whose identity is so strongly defined by its reliance on fossil fuels, is a complex economic matter. Projects are underway, but it will take time to convert raising awareness to concrete national policies.

Before/after artificial lung installation near Krakow

Having carefully calculated the validity of the highway vignette, we are able to cross into Hungary again, this time stopping in the charming town of Pecs. The pedestrian historical center is outstanding and by 4PM it is ablaze with holiday lights, vendors and nativity scenes.

National Theater of Pecs, Hungary

Christmas concert at Pecs Cathedral

Native-born Victor Vasarely Museum, Pecs

When we reenter Slovenia, there is still time to visit Ptuj, the country’s oldest city. B&B Silak is a 500-year-old tannery by the river renovated by Vladimir, a passionate local, and his wife.

Ptuj, Slovenia

At this time of year, there are only 3-4 other people visiting the castle all the way up the hill.

Ptuj Castle, Slovenia

Interior Ptuj Castle, Slovenia

We reach Ljubljana for one last night. There’s snow on the ground and with Christmas just a week away, the ambiance is that of a fairytale.

A winter night in Ljubljana

Finishing food reserves on the last night of the road trip, Ljubljana

The frying pan in my carry-on sails through airport security (if that is not a weapon...) and we are off to Tbilisi, Georgia. Having driven over 5140 kms in six weeks, we are looking forward to slowing the pace down drastically.

The charcoal-gray Fiat 500 we pick up at Comiso, (Sicily’s low-cost carrier airport) is just the right size for driving the island. It’s pretty late when we check-in at Villa Si Cilia (41 euros/night), but the owner assures us we’ll find something open in town; a 10 minute drive away. On this breezy, pleasant night in May, parking is easy; finding a restaurant serving after 9PM, not so. We end up at the counter of a small cafe with our first taste of Arancini, deep-fried stuffed rice balls. This will not be a low-calorie trip!

Basilica of Maria Santissima Annunziata, Comiso

Villa Si Cilia, Comiso

We’ve got five days to make our way north to Cefalu to celebrate a friend’s milestone birthday. Distances are short in Sicily, so we have plenty of time to make a few stops. There is hardly a soul in Marina di Ragusa. Off season there are only about 3500 inhabitants. That number swells to 60,000 sun worshippers in July/August. We have the worst pizza at one of the few places open and leave immediately.

My first taste of impossibly steep, narrow streets is in the UNESCO city of Modica. One wrong turn in search of a parking space near the cathedral in Modica Alta and I find myself having to back-up a steep, narrow lane. I (simultaneously) let go of the clutch and emergency brake and floor it, leaving a chunk of rubber and some sweat on those slippery 14th century cobblestones.

Cathedral of San Giorgio, Modica

View from the bell tower, Cathedral of San Giorgio, Modica

Modica is also famous for its distinctive chocolate made with a cold technique that keeps the sugar from melting. Shops are filled with interesting and unusual flavors, but crunching on grains of sugar is an acquired taste.

In 1693, an earthquake and tsunami devastated many of Sicily’s southeastern towns including Modica, Ragusa, Syracuse and Catania. The elaborate reconstruction effort of eight towns of the Val di Noto (today classified by UNESCO) resulted in a distinctive style of architecture known as Sicilian Baroque. Perched on a hill, Ragusa Ibla is a fine example with a pretty church and plenty of rugged cobblestone streets to exhaust you (wear comfortable shoes).

Cathedral of San Giorgio, Ragusa Ibla

Ragusa Ibla

Perhaps the most stunning example of Late Baroque is the city of Noto. The main (pedestrian) street is a festival of sparkling, perfectly aligned limestone palazzos, churches, charming restaurants and the creamiest gelato.

Roman Catholic Diocese of Noto

Stained glass detail from the Teatro Tina Di Lorenzo, Noto

Outdoor Dining, Noto

Syracuse is a short drive from Noto; shorter if you drive like a local! The roads are excellent for the most part and highway is literal; one or two-lane configurations stretch at dizzying heights above rivers and valleys. Sicilians are in a rush and will practically kiss your back bumper to pass. Once you get used to their driving habits it’s rather fun, but the pick-up on this Fiat 500 quashes any competitive urge.

It’s late afternoon when we cross the bridge to Ortigia. The setting is dazzling, but we have not booked a place in advance and this is problematic. The streets are minuscule, one way and parking is impossible. Moreover, Ortigia does not offer many budget options. The one place I find is immediately vetoed for its damp stench. I don’t know what I was thinking other than it was getting late. With the clock ticking (cars are not allowed across the bridge after a certain hour), we retreat to Syracuse city. A long search eventually brings us to a clean, modern space overlooking the San Giovani Catacombs with free (street) parking.

L and D Luxury Rooms, Syracuse (45 eu)

By the time we’re settled, it’s late, but finding food is never an issue in Sicily.

Thick-crust Sicilian pizza

A serious computer glitch disrupts our plans and we end up having to leave the next day without visiting Syracuse or Ortigia. I put it on the list for later.

The guesthouse I figured would have a room in Piazza Armerina is full! The helpful owner calls a friend who sends his father to show us an apartment nearby. The decor is ultra traditional and we will not use 1/4 of the enormous 3 bedroom/2 bath space, but the elderly man is so engaging and the price is right (35 euros).

Our car (and bags) in front of the apartment in Piazza Armerina

Some of the rooms in the apartment

Piazza Armerina is most famous for the magnificent mosaics of the 4th century Villa Romana del Casale, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

Mosaics at Villa Romana del Casale, Piazza Armerina

We arrive in the picturesque seaside town of Cefalu in the afternoon.

Like most towns, the streets are narrow and parking is restrictive, so we’ve booked Villa Magara (53 eu/night) in the hills overlooking the city.

Villa Magara, Cefalu

The birthday girl has meticulously organized the next three days for us (and 12 friends/family who’ve flown in from the US), complete with guided visits, sumptuous meals and joyous, nonstop celebration. Words cannot describe the generosity and love shared.

View of Castelbuono

Flower carpet, Castelbuono

Chapel of Saint Anne, Ventimiglia Castle, Castelbuono

Local men sitting at a cafe in Castlebuono

Sluggish after the 3-day binge, we leave the group and head west along the northern coast.

View of Caccamo

We stop for the night in Castellammare del Golfo. We do not know it yet, but it will top the list of favorites by the end of the trip.

A series of tight turns and one way streets leads to an abrupt stop in front of stone steps as the GPS defiantly announces, “You have arrived.” Sensing our quandary, the phone immediately displays, “Walk the rest of the way.” I can’t help responding out loud, “ Thanks, where do we leave the car?” We look around and decide it’s obvious; right in the middle of this small square like everyone else!

Driving across Sicily, it is impossible to ignore the garbage. Bags of household trash, construction debris, even appliances are abandoned on the side of the road and it is not unusual to see people litter without a second thought. Rest stops are particularly disgusting and outside tourist zones, there is garbage everywhere. It’s extremely upsetting.

The Doric columns of the temple at Segesta (UNESCO) suggest Greek builders, but it was actually the (indigenous) Elymians who built it in the 5th century BC. From the entrance, there is a shuttle bus to the ruins. It’s a bit more of an uphill walk to the amphitheater. With such a beautiful, natural backdrop, they certainly did not need set design! Don’t forget the hat and sunscreen.

Amphitheater at Segesta

Temple of Segesta

View from the top of Segesta archeological site

View of the coast on the road from Segesta to Erice

Piazza Umberto, Erice

Cobblestone street, Erice

Erice, famous for its pastries

Baker in Erice

Driving by the salt pans near Marsala. Notice the 43 kite surfers in the background!

It’s evening when we reach Trapani on the northwest coast of the island. Parking is color-coordinated in Sicily: Blue requires a ticket, yellow is for residents only and white is free. Then there are the 20-minute-only spaces that we missed. A kind man explains that if we pay right away at the police station, it will be much cheaper than the bill from the car rental agency. Months (and an interminable email thread) later, despite proof of payment, AVIS still wants to charge a hefty administrative fee. Eventually, they back down, but it is a long fight. Never give in!

Sole Terra Luna, Trapani (40 eu incl. breakfast at a cafe nearby)

You can get your steps in at Selinunte or, just take the golf cart. The massive archeological site was a thriving Greek metropolis from somewhere around 630 BC until 409 BC when it was leveled by the invading Carthaginians. It is an impressive pile of rubble, with a few distinctive structures still standing and a commanding view of the coast. Best to visit early morning or late afternoon when the sun beats a little softer.

Selinunte Archeological Park

Garbage on the road continues to be an issue...

Scala dei Turchi, naturally terraced cliffs on the southern coast.

The Valley of the Temples (UNESCO) is one of Sicily’s most famous archeological sites. Not sure where “valley” came from as the vestiges actually sit high on a ridge on the outskirts of Agrigento (lots of uphill walking). We visit at the end of the day when the light is beautiful, temps are cooler and the tour buses have gone.

Valley of the Temples, Agrigento

To avoid traffic and strict parking rules in Agrigento, we head for the pleasant seaside hamlet of San Leone and Villa Amico (39 euros with breakfast, lovely owner and enclosed parking).

Seafood couscous

If you don’t know what Caltagirone (also on the UNESCO list) is famous for, gaze up at the 142 steps of the Scalinata di Santa Maria del Monte. If you’re still not sure, walk into any shop in town.

Ceramic tiles on the steps of Santa Maria del Monte, Caltagirone

Flower pots on the steps

Church of Santa Maria del Monte at the top of the stairs

Moorish heads in a Majolica shop

People are particularly nice here. Despite a big language barrier, they go out of their way to help: optician, restaurant owner, shopkeeper. Strangers in the street smile and say hello. The room at Casa Diliberto, is cheerful, but hasn’t been used in awhile and we have to sweep up a few dust bunnies. The kind owner checks in several times as we are the only guests in the building.

Casa Diliberto rooms (35 euros), Caltagirone

Ceramic mural,

wall art,

a vintage car rally,

and kids playing football in Caltagirone.

Cathedral of Santa Maria La Nova, Caltanissetta

After much deliberation over ferry schedules, island connections and lodging options, we decide to join an organized day trip to the Aeolian islands (also UNESCO) that leaves from Cefalu early, stops at three islands and returns at night after (hopefully) a volcanic eruption on Stromboli (80 eu pp).
We spend the night before in Campofelice di Roccella, a hill town (and seaside resort) about 20 minutes from the embarkation point in Cefalu. It makes the list of places that warrant spending more time in.

Grilled veggies

The boat leaves Cefalu promptly at 9AM with about 100 people aboard.

Day cruise to the Aeolian islands

The first stop is verdant Salina island, one of the shooting locations of the film Il Postino. We’ve got a couple of hours to amble around the pedestrian streets by the port and taste Malvasia, a delicious locally-produced sweet wine.

Views of Salina island

It’s 2PM when the boat docks at celeb favorite, Panarea island. As we wander the steep streets with charming villas, boutique hotels, shops selling expensive beachwear and trendy restaurants, I cannot fathom wanting to be here in the summer with hoards of tourists invading any sense of privacy.

Small streets of Panarea island

Small islands around Panarea island

Cruising near Stromboli with Strombolicchio lighthouse in the distance

The last stop of the day is Stromboli with its active volcano. In constant eruption, viewing fiery lava spewing from the crater at night is pretty much guaranteed, but with a couple of hours until sundown, the boat disembarks on the opposite side of the island for more gelato, souvenir shops and rocky beaches. We shop picnic items then walk over to the beach blanketed with black lava rocks. This must be the origin of hot stone massage! If you want to walk on, or swim off, the beaches, bring rubber shoes!

Beach, Stromboli

When night falls, the boat circles to a spot facing the volcano. Big puffs of smoke shoot up every few minutes. We’re told to look for the telltale sign of an eruption, small bursts of light from cameras of tourists who have opted to hike the crater. Eventually, we get one blast of red-hot lava. Not a night of spectacular eruptions, but still pretty cool from a safe distance.

Maneuvering into position in front of Stromboli volcano

Stromboli eruption

It’s almost 1AM by the time we get back to Cefalu.

Friends from Belgium are joining us for 5 days. We’re not sure how to fit them and more luggage in the car, but they promise to pack light. Before picking them up in Palermo, we go back to Castellammare del Golfo.

Check-in at Casa dei Capitano is awkward when the guy shows me a different room than expected, but he motions me to follow a few doors down and presents a much nicer option.

Casa dei Capitano (30 eu)

The one negative point in Castellammare is that several places in town, like our favorite coffee shop and seafood restaurant, serve everything in plastic! In this day and age?

Zingaro Nature Reserve is about an hour by car from Castellammare. From the parking lot, a path winds along the cliffs with several offshoots leading down steep steps to small coves and sparkling water.

Zingaro Nature Reserve

Zingaro Nature Reserve

Scopello near Zingaro

The traffic around Palermo is chaotic to say the least and drivers are rather aggressive. With frazzled nerves we reach our apartment in the historic center (UNESCO).

2 bedroom apartment, Palermo (40 eu/night)

Thankfully, the owner pre-purchased a parking permit for us. Better to be a pedestrian in this city. 48 hours is plenty to take in the mix of Roman, Byzantine, Arab and Norman influences.

Palermo Cathedral

Quattro Canti Square

Pretoria Fountain

San Domenico

Street musicians

Boiled octopus, a street food favorite

Cannoli worthy of UNESCO recognition!

Lady with stroller

Pop-up vendors near the Church of San Francesco Saverio

San Giovanni Degli Eremiti, church, mosque, monastery...

San Giovanni Degli Eremiti

Former private residence, Palazzo Mirto

Palazzo Mirto, Palermo

With our friends tightly packed in the back, we leave Palermo and head east. Cefalu is a must see, so we stop for a couple of hours. Temperatures are much warmer now and it is more crowded since our first visit two weeks ago.

Cefalu Cathedral (UNESCO)

Fruit and veg vendor, Cefalu

A tour of Sicily, would not be complete without a visit to Mt. Etna (also UNESCO). Our friend researches the possibilities given our limited time and desired difficulty and suggests we spend the night in Randazzo, aka, the black town. Amazingly, the small medieval town, so close to the crater, has never been effected by eruptions. Its distinctive black color comes from the use of lava stones as decorative motifs in many of the buildings.

View of Randazzo With Mt. Etna in the distance

Church of San Nicolo, Randazzo

Etna Guesthouse in Randazzo (54 eu for 4)

We drive ourselves to the start point of the Mount Zoccolaro trail. It’s a relatively short (45 min - 1 hour), occasionally steep trail, through the forest to a clearing with a stupendous view of the (active) volcano and surrounding valleys dipping into the Ionian Sea.

Lava field with Mt. Etna in the background

View of Mt. Etna

Flowers growing in the lava fields around Mt. Etna

Constant activity on Mt. Etna

Later, we are again rewarded with a clear, (though distant) view of Mt. Etna from the terrace of our apartment in Fiumefreddo, aptly named, The Godfather Apartment in homage to scenes of the movie that were shot in this town. (46 eu for 4).

The Godfather apartment, Fiumefreddo

The Godfather apartment, Fiumefreddo

Given all the hype around Taormina, we saved it for our friends, thinking this UNESCO site would be a highlight. Granted, it is pretty, but it’s beyond touristy, and this is preseason! In one of the funnier moments, we decide to drive further up the mountain to Castelmola. The Fiat 500 strains as the road winds and winds. We pull into a small square and land a great parking spot for exactly one second until we’re waved towards a garage several turns back below. On the steep walk back to town, each of us makes a comment - “Didn’t think there would be as many tourists here”, “Interesting, they have an amphitheater here too”, “I saw the same shop in Taormina”... It takes the 4 of us a full 15 minutes to realize that we are still in Taormina!

Amphitheater, Taormina

Views from Taormina

View of Isola Bella from Taormina

Back at sea level, we head towards Isola Bella to see what all the fuss is about. You practically have to step over bodies on the rocky beach to reach the point where during low tide it is possible to cross, but the water is cold and an entry fee awaits on the other side. The isola is bella from a distance.

Taormina Beach with Isola Bella behind

Determined to spend a couple of hours on a sandy beach, we find our way to Calamosche Beach located in Vendicari Nature Reserve. From the parking lot, it’s a solid 20 minute walk across a hot, dry plateau. At the edge of a cliff, stairs lead to a fairly large bay with fine sand and gorgeous, easy to handle, waves. The water is still a little chilly in mid-June, but once in, it’s glorious. Be warned, there is absolutely no shade anywhere.

Calamosche Beach, Vendicari Nature Reserve

The last stop on the way to Comiso Airport is in the pretty (UNESCO) town of Scicli. It’s another one of those places worth spending more time in. We have just enough for one more gelato...

San Bartolomeo, Scicli

And there it is, a 5-week road trip through pretty much all of Sicily. The takeaways: Charming medieval towns, gorgeous views, crystal clear water, nice archeological sites, and sublime desserts. The leave behinds: generally heavy cuisine, overly-crowded tourists zones, and way too much garbage.

True to form, this leg of the trip starts in Bangkok where we enjoy a bit of luxury at a most democratic price before heading (back) to Indonesia hoping to do a story on the endangered Sumatran orangutan.

As mentioned before, the best bang for your buck in Bangkok is via Airbnb with one caveat: many condominiums prohibit short-term subletting. If things go wrong, the experience can be quite aggravating so be sure to read the reviews, contact the owner, etc., to avoid any hassle.

Assured by our host that we’ll have no trouble, we ignore the warnings plastered all over the building and proceed with the most unusual check-in worthy of a spy thriller. Following a series of photos we’ve received in advance, we locate an armchair in the lobby and sure enough under the cushion, there’s an envelope with my name on it. Inside, are several key cards and a small plastic case with a fingerprint embedded in a silicone film! Like magic, the door to the elevator bank opens when I press the fingerprint to the reader...

Latex fingerprint for check-in, Bangkok

Apartment Thong Lo neighborhood, Bangkok

Coffee in Bangkok

True shop/cafe/workspace at Siam Paragon mall, Bangkok

Food court at EM Quartier mall, Bangkok

Rice paper roll with shrimp and fresh mint, EM Quartier food court, Bangkok

Hor Mok crab curry in banana leaf, Supaniga restaurant, Bangkok

Thai tea panna cotta, Supaniga restaurant, Bangkok

Chocolate melt with ice cream, Sit and Wonder restaurant, Bangkok

There is always something going on in Bangkok. This week, it’s the Navaratri festival celebrating Durga, the Hindu warrior goddess who wards off evil. Ten days of festivities center around the flamboyant Sri Mariamman Temple at Silom road. Flowers, lights and music.

Navaratri festival, Bangkok

The flight to Indonesia is just two hours. Standing by the baggage carousel at Kualanamu International Airport in Medan (Sumatra), a local strikes up conversation. She’s a doctor, teaches at the university, and within minutes, this kind stranger is handing me her phone number. And that’s the reception we will get everywhere in Medan. People, smile, wave... at one restaurant the entire staff asks us to pose for a photo!

The airport taxi driver doesn’t speak a word of English, but his friend assures us the jalopy will make it to the city. For most of the ride, somehow the tires remain attached; well, until one bursts with a loud pop! The car limps thru a toll booth and fizzles on the shoulder. The driver is inconsolable, but a replacement taxi is quick to arrive and we’re on our way.

Kanasha Hotel, located behind the (more traditional) Garuda Hotel, is brand new, modern and comfortable. For 20 euros including breakfast, the room is made up every day.

Kanasha Hotel, Medan

The ever-expanding amenity collection in our room

Most travellers spend a night or two in Medan (the capital of North Sumatra and largest city on the island) on the way to the tourist sites like Bukit Lawang (orangutan treks) and Lake Toba (volcano). We are trying to put together a photo shoot around the rescue, rehabilitation and release of the endangered Sumatran orangutan. Obtaining authorizations proves to be an achingly slow process. Within several weeks we have seen every shop, eaten at every restaurant in the Sun Plaza mall and tried every hip cafe and restaurant in Medan. By week four, we’re rotating through our favorites.

Sushi, sometimes twice a day, at Sushitei restaurant, Medan

Authentic pizzas at Trattoria Italian restaurant, Medan

Crab at Jimbaran restaurant, Medan

Sangrai Coffeeshop, Medan

Junction Cafe, Medan

People are getting used to seeing us and we attract a fair amount of attention especially when we try to walk from one place to another. Nobody walks in Medan; the sidewalks are horrendous (gaping holes, trees growing in the middle, slippery moss-covered stones), the air quality is awful, and it’s hot and muggy.

Not a reassuring sidewalk for the blind in Medan

Sushitei restaurant, Medan

Fuku Japanese restaurant, Medan

Live music at Potret Cafe, Medan

In modern Medan, where extreme poverty and excessive wealth share real estate, restroom facilities vary from squat toilets, bucket and water for flushing provided, to Western facilities with toilet paper and waste bins (flushing paper is never allowed). Apparently, the education of the public from squat to Western toilets is a work in progress. There are graphics reminding people not to stand on the seat though the campaign is obviously not working given telltale shoe marks! Sometimes, the toilet and floor are completely soaked with water as there is always a hose attachement for manual washing and it is common practice to cleanse the entire installation when finished. Fancier places have hi-end Japanese commodes that wash, dry your derrière, and even play music! Oh, and some people think mothballs are an air freshener...

One of the mansions on Kartini Road, Medan

Lady selling newspaper, Medan

Exactly whose idea was it to visit Indonesia during monsoon? At first, it was manageable, raining mostly at night. But today, it rained so hard, within minutes the streets were flooded. Thinking I was smart by waiting for the deluge to pass, when I eventually waded into the street, the wake from the cars was so high, I thought it would be safer to step up to the sidewalk. The minute I put my foot on the plank covering a wide drain, I knew I was going down. In an instant, I was chest-deep in rushing (who knows how dirty) water! Before I could panic, two locals yanked me out. Absolutely mortified, I thanked them and stumbled on to my destination with my clothes clinging to my body, certain that all my devices were floating in my bag. I was incredibly lucky; not a scratch and no water damage. The only thing bruised was my ego. As I write this (many months later), I realize I’m still traumatized.

The fateful sidewalk on a dry day, Medan

Eventually, diligence pays off. We’ve filed all the paperwork and passed the medical checks for the Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Programme (SOCP) and we are now on standby with the Orangutan Information Center (OIC) and their field team, HOCRU (Human Orangutan Conflict Response Unit). When the call comes in, we have just enough time to grab our bags (previously packed with essentials for a couple of days of rustic living, and standing by for weeks) from our hotel. There has been a report of an orangutan sighting on a rubber plantation in the Aceh Tamiang district about five hours north of Medan. We’ve been briefed on the conditions we should expect and yet... It’s pitch black as we pull up to a cluster of small homes. The wood house has a main room flanked by two bedrooms and a kitchen with no appliances. The bathroom is dissected by a tree branch. The (supremely kind) owners give us their room. They will sleep with their kids in the other bed. The rest of the team (7 people) will sleep in the main room on a large mat that will be rolled out on the floor after dinner (rice, chicken, vegetables, tea and cookies also served on the floor).

Main room of the house, Aceh Tamiang rescue

Rain pelts the metal roof as I try to sleep, wondering if my mosquito repellant will protect me overnight and thinking about the muddy conditions we’ll face in the morning.

Bedroom, Aceh Tamiang rescue

It’s 8AM as we head out for a “walk” which means to search the area where the animal was last seen.

Communicating by walkie-talkie, Aceh Tamiang rescue

Orangutans live in the treetops and move up to 3 kms everyday in search of food. They build a new nest every night. The land is owned by the government and concessions are leased to private companies. In the name of conservation, the law requires a certain number of acres remain untouched. Naturally, the steepest (hardest to excavate) bits of the forest are not cleared creating pockets within plantations where orangutans (and other animals) get stranded. It’s hot, humid, buggy, slippery and difficult to keep up. The good news; no leeches! After 3 hours of bushwhacking to no avail, the team heads back to the house where lunch is served, on the floor.

The crackling sound of voices on a walkie-talkie jolts us from a post-lunch nap. The orangutan has been found and within minutes we’re careening down the road in two cars towards the location. It’s about a 20 minute hike into the plantation to find it perched high up in a tree. The rescue is precise: the vet prepares the sedation dart, others coerce the animal down to a safer fall height before a marksman takes aim. As the orangutan begins to lose consciousness, team members maneuver a net for the catch, but the terrain is steep and muddy and when it drops in, the weight sends everyone slipping and sliding including the photographer who bounces by me on his butt shooting! The minute the orangutan is brought to level ground, the team springs into action on the medical check.

On-site medical check in the mud, Aceh Tamiang rescue

They have about 40 minutes to determine her condition and get her to the transport cage on the vehicle before she wakes up. The vet determines that while she has several wounds, she does not need specific medical treatment at their facility and can be returned to the forest. However, getting to the release site requires a whole other set of logistics because the forest is beyond a palm oil plantation. Circumventing the plantation will take six hours! Calls are made and eventually, permission to drive through the private property is granted, slashing the transport time to two hours. A couple of team members ride with the cage on the pickup monitoring the orangutan who begins to stir.

Driving through the plantation

Night is falling as men lift the cage off the truck, carry it into the brush and place it at the base of a tree.

Unloading the cage in the Tenggulun protected forest

When the door is lifted, the orangutan bolts straight up and disappears into the night in a flash. It happens so fast it’s somewhat anticlimactic. The drive back to the village Is interminable. With 10 people sharing the bathroom, it’s a while before everyone has cleaned up after an epic day.

Upon return, Medan takes on a whole new perspective. Our small hotel room feels positively luxurious. After an extremely long, hot shower, we rush to our favorite cafes for a hot latte, sushi, etc.

World-class cappuccino, Medan

Sushitei Japanese restaurant, Medan

$2 shave at Lippo Mall, Medan

Aside from soup, it’s hard to get a hot meal. And you can forget about an entire order being served at the same time even in upscale restaurants. As one waiter reminds us, “We only have one chef sir...” One night, dessert actually arrives first! In some places, as they are handing you the menu, they ask you if you’d like to order. Me & Kartini makes great coffee but besides croissants and cookies, they don’t serve food. You can order a salad from the shop upstairs, BUT you have to order it a day in advance. When not totally annoying, these odd customs provide endless entertainment. Eventually, we land at Coffeenatics. The owner and staff are super nice, the coffee is exceptional, and the food is quite good as well. It pretty much becomes our HQ.

Coffeenatics, Medan

Delicious fresh pasta at Coffeenatics, Medan

Drivers in Indonesia refuse to yield and they will run you over. The trick to crossing a street is just to advance slowly and let traffic flow around you. I shame people all the time for things like not letting me pass, for listening to their phones without headphones, cutting in lines, allowing their kids to run around screaming in restaurants, etc. Manners must be learned!

Over the next few months, in between long stints in the city making contacts and following (often empty) leads, we participate in several rescues.

Rescue on a plantation in Langkat district

The vet hangs an IV drip on a palm tree during the on-site medical check, Langkat rescue

Villagers, Langkat district

Main room of the home we stayed in during the Langkat rescue

Dinner is served, Langkat rescue

Bedroom, Langkat rescue

One case becomes particularly high profile when a female orangutan is rescued with her baby. Once sedated, a team member gently removes the baby from its mother’s grasp.

Mom is then placed on the ground for the medical check. A quick examination reveals that she is gravely wounded and the baby is in critical condition. They are rushed to the jeep but it will take 10 hours to reach the medical center!

Despite the valiant effort of the vet, it is an excruciating moment for everyone when he pronounces the baby’s death.

The long drive back to the quarantine center is somber. The team decides that the only fitting name for the mother, riddled with 74 air bullet wounds, blinded in both eyes and distraught at the death of her child, is Hope. Within a few days, Hope undergoes surgery for a broken clavicle performed by a Swiss doctor who voluntarily flies in when needed to help with the more complicated cases.



Unable to return to the wild, Hope will live out her days at The Haven, the SOCP’s (Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Programme) soon-to-open protected habitat.

Five months later, it’s now the beginning of April and the one thing missing from our story, the reintroduction of orangutans into the wild, is about to take place. The SOCP has worked in conjunction with the government.for months. It’s bureaucracy with a capital B, where paperwork always takes a backseat to holidays, elections, etc. With so many religious groups co-existing in Medan, the number of holidays (and subsequent delays) is astonishing. Finally, the call comes in: the orangutans will be transported to Jantho, a station in a protected national park about two hours outside of Aceh, where they will be closely monitored for several (or more) weeks until it is determined that they are ready to return to the wild. One and a half hours from Medan, at the SOCP Quarantine Centre, five orangutans are being prepared for transport.

One by one, the orangutans are sedated and brought to the examination room for a final medical check.

The orangutan will be transported from its enclosure to the clinic by wheelbarrow

Weighing an orangutan

Final medical check before transport

Delightfully unaware of the activity, Brenda, a 4.5-month-old recent rescue, is learning how to climb on an apparatus made from small branches to suit her size. With her left arm in a cast, the baby gingerly climbs around under the supervision of veterinarian Jenni.

Lunch is interrupted by some extremely agitated orangutans. Everyone rushes from the communal table to the enclosures to find a giant python coiled up on the stairs nearby.

The python scaring the orangutans and humans at the SOCP Quarantine Centre, Sibolangit

Bagging a python

Two guys take off on a scooter to release the python back into the forest.

Once the transport boxes are closed and the animals have been fed, they are loaded onto a small truck and driven out to the main road where a long-haul vehicle awaits. Hidden in dense forest, even the locals do not know where the SOCP facility is.

Five orangutans leave the SOCP Quarantine Centre, Sibolangit

Lead vet Jenni, will accompany the orangutans on the overnight drive to ensure their well-being. The rest of the team flies to Aceh.

The next morning, the truck is met in Aceh by two jeeps that will transport the orangutans to the Jantho Release Centre.

Moving the orangutans to the jeeps for transport to Jantho

The ride to Jantho through the jungle takes two hours on a dirt track

General view of Jantho Release Centre, Aceh Province

Ultra-thin floor pad for sleeping, Jantho Release Centre

During the acclimation period at the monitoring station in Jantho, the cages are opened in the morning encouraging the orangutans to venture out. The animal can come back to the safety of the cage at any time until it builds the courage and determination to leave for good. Caretakers monitor their behavior and activity, noting how much time is spent looking for food, if they are building nests, etc. Like humans, orangutans need to be taught skills. A mother usually trains her child for 8-9 years before it can survive on its own. The orangutan’s history - orphaned, injured, domesticated - determines whether or not it can be released back into the wild. Only orangutans deemed capable of surviving in the wild are brought to this station.

Final team meeting before the release in Jantho, Aceh Province

For the caregivers, release day is a bittersweet moment.

The incredible bonds that develop with these great apes that share 97% of our DNA

The orangutan is transported across the river and released

As usual, coming back to the city is an orgy of comfort - hot showers, crisp clean clothes, great coffee and a variety of food choices.

Cajun shrimp with pasta at The Three Thumbs restaurant, Sun Plaza, Medan

Fresh avocado salad at Fuku Japanese restaurant, Medan

Whole fish at Jimbaran restaurant, Medan

Nasi bakar ayam at Holy Duck restaurant, Medan

Habitat Cafe, next to Manza Massage - $15 for 2 hours of bliss, Medan

We decide to end the almost 6 month stay in Sumatra with a visit to Bukit Lawang to see orangutans the traditional way, on a jungle trek. It’s a three-hour drive to the entrance of the village. If ever you plan to go, travel light because you have to drag/carry your suitcase along an uneven path, through the village, past souvenir stands, in extreme heat and humidity, to reach your guesthouse.

Village, Bukit Lawang

Wall art, Bukit Lawang

Jungle Inn, Bukit Lawang

The reception/restaurant

Our room has two balconies overlooking the river, 30 euros/night

and an outdoor bathroom with waterfall shower

Smoothie breakfast bowl

I’m nervous about the trek as it has rained hard overnight and the terrain is steep. Our two guides, Nangan and Rudy are great and while it’s a little slippery, bamboo branches cum walking sticks make all the difference. And unlike the rescues, here, there are well-defined trails to follow. Several NGOs operate in the area and today there are about 400 orangutans in the surrounding jungle. Although tourism has flourished, the area maintains an eco-friendly vibe.

Indigenous plant, a most effective mosquito repellent

Rubbing the leaves on my arms

Giant ant, Bukit Lawang

Orangutans in the forest, Bukit Lawang

Rest stop, orangutan trek, Bukit Lawang

Drone view of our guesthouse, Jungle Inn, and the river, Bukit Lawang

The plan is to hike down to the river and catch a jungle taxi (inflated tubes tied together) back, but we find ourselves literally across from our guesthouse so we jump in the water (fully clothed) and fight the current and slippery rocks to the other side. The water is glorious!

River taxi, Bukit Lawang

Refreshing fresh fruit juices at Back to Nature Guest House

It’s hard to believe we are leaving Medan after so many months. We have made some friends and many acquaintances and developed so many routines.

Arriving in Bangkok, It takes a few minutes to work out why so many Thais are wearing yellow. Tilt: the coronation of King Maha Vajiralongkorn. The entire city is bathed in yellow and gold during the 3-day festivities.

Preparation for a show at EM Quartier mall, during the coronation of King Maha Vajiralongkorn

Photos of King Maha Vajiralongkorn everywhere

Puppet shows in honor of the new king at EM Quartier mall next to Phrom Phong Skytrain station, Bangkok

With a couple of weeks before flying to Europe, we decide to check out some destinations further south to escape the oppressive heat in Bangkok. We’ve heard that Hua Hin, three hours by bus, is a nice seaside town. Euh... maybe for people desperate to get out of Bangkok and play golf on the weekend, but that’s about it. Although it’s on the main road, our room behind a lovely cafe called Bliss is an exceptional deal.

Bliss Hotel and Restaurant (25 eu), Hua Hin

It’s a 10 minute walk to the center and the beach. Like many Thai resort areas, there are plenty of bars, fronted by Thai women welcoming Western, (generally) older men. Yuck! The beach is nice to walk along, but unless you’re staying in a resort, there are nicer beaches in Thailand.

Grilling squid on the beach in Hua Hin

Cleaning crew, Hua Hin beach

Night Market, Hua Hin

Our final destination is Ko Pha Ngan island. To get there, you need to coordinate with a ferry and the safest thing to do is a bus/ferry combo ticket. Buses in Thailand are generally ultra modern and comfortable, this one is neither. While the seats almost fully recline, there is just no way to get comfortable for the overnight ride.

Bus to Ko Pha Ngan

View of Ko Tao Island from the ferry to Ko Pha Ngan

We rent a scooter (the best mode of travel for the island) and check into our brand new room on the beach in between Thong Sala and Baan Kai.

Room at Samutra Residence (32 eu/night), Ko Pha Ngan

View from the room, Samutra Residence, Ko Pha Ngan

The atmosphere is ultra laid-back with many people walking around barefoot even in town. All these uncovered bodies are rather shocking after five months in predominantly Muslim Indonesia. Here, it’s all about skin. I adapt my wardrobe immediately and switch to vacation mode.

Thong Nai Pan beach, Ko Pha Ngan

Belgian Beer Bistro, Ko Pha Ngan

Haad Rin beach (of full moon party fame), Ko Pha Ngan

View of Ko Ma island, Ko Pha Ngan

Mae Haad beach, Koh Pha Ngan

And with that we comfortably end this long chapter in Sumatra. While the conditions were sometimes extremely hard, the experiences were profoundly rewarding. The dedication demonstrated by the people we shadowed for months is truly inspiring. The story is as much about them as it is about saving orangutans.

Unless you are Korean or Chinese, chances are you’ve never heard of Jeju, but if you read our post on Korea you may recall that we visited this island off the southern tip of the mainland in December of 2017: 123 Kimcheeeeeeeeeee! https://spicechronicles.travellerspoint.com/78/

At the time, we were looking for Haenyeo (pronounced hen yo), Jeju’s lady divers famous for their exceptional free diving skills. But our timing was off. Although the island enjoys a more temperate climate, winter months can be quite cold exacerbated by strong winds. And while many Haenyeo dive year-round, the activity slows, often affected by inclement weather. We calculated that the effort we’d have to put in to find divers and the weather conditions we’d have to endure ourselves would probably not yield the desired results.

Porous basalt rock of Jeju Island

Fast forward to September 2018. A pleasant breeze greets us as we step off the plane in Jeju City. If booked in advance, the 1-hour flight from Seoul is cheap, making Jeju a popular weekend destination.

View of Lotte Tower, Seoul’s tallest, piercing through fog and haze

It is entirely possible to rely on the color-coded public buses that loop around the island in both directions, but the freedom of a rental car cannot be overstated. With so much Korean signage, adjusting to driving here is a bit challenging. Luckily, the English translation is usually indicated and big arrows on the asphalt help keep you in the correct lane. GPS girl speaks our language endlessly calling attention to the achingly slow speed limit, and there are plenty of cameras and bright signs to remind you that you are under surveillance. Speeding is not recommended though bus drivers appear to be exempt from all traffic laws.

Rental car, Jeju island

We get the same room at Choi Hostel (30 euros) in the southern city of Seogwipo. But this time there is no breakfast available which is unfortunate because the only non-Asian options are Korean bakeries with names like Paris Baguette and Tous Les Jours offering pasty sweets, though most days we’re able to snag a fresh baguette and cream cheese. The trash bin is emptied and we get 4 new (mini) towels every day, but they don’t make the bed, or clean anything. There is never anyone at reception. Just a phone number to call. We could possibly be the only guests.

Choi Hostel, Seogwipo

Monster beef rib soup

Takeout craft beer shop, Seogwipo

In order to facilitate approaching the notoriously standoffish Haenyeo, we interview a couple of fixers and settle on Kyle, a young Jeju native recommended by an acquaintance in Seoul. At 22, he speaks Korean, Chinese, Japanese, English and even a little French! Most importantly, he also speaks Jeju which is recognized as a distinct language.

The Haenyeo were inscribed on the UNESCO list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in 2016. Numbers have dwindled since their peak in the 1970s, but there are still about 4000 ladies who make a living holding their breath for up to two minutes as they collect delicacies from the sea. Divers are affiliated with fisheries and adhere to strict rules regarding who can dive, when, where, what they can harvest and allotted quantities. Official dives occur twice a month during low tides determined by the lunar calendar, but small ladies in black rubber suits are a common site around the island. When they are not diving, many Haenyeo work on farms.

Located on the west coast of Jeju, the Haenyeo Museum is holding a festival for two days to honor these elite divers and showcase their traditions. Groups from every village are gathered and there are many events giving visitors the opportunity to try some of the techniques the women use for collecting seafood.

A group of Haenyeo at the Museum Festival

Ceremony tent, Haenyeo Museum Festival

Offerings and prayers for safe and bountiful diving

At a small house near the water, divers get ready for a demonstration. Our idea is to shoot them with their wetsuits, accessories and equipment before and after but this is no easy feat as they are superstitious, grumpy, and somewhat victims of their success. With Kyle’s help, we manage to convince some to prepare in front of the black background we’ve draped on the side of the house. Fringe weather from a typhoon off the coast of Japan brings soaking rain and gusty winds but makes for some great shots.

The women put a branch of mugwort (aka wormwood) in the mask. Like saliva or baby shampoo, rubbing the plant on the glass defogs the mask and its odor helps the diver to relax.

On the second day of the festival, in an attempt to butter them up a bit, we bring the ladies a case of fresh grapes and a rack of bananas which they thank us for profusely before immediately reverting to their stubborn ways! Despite working quickly and asking them to pose for literally one minute they are reluctant, though some do acquiesce.

A handful of conches

Concrete information about when and where divers will be going out is difficult to find, so we spend entire days driving along the coast stopping to inquire at every Haenyeo house we find. Some are closed, opening only around dive days. In others, we meet a fair amount of resistance. The women do not want to be photographed; it’s bad luck, we have to talk to the chief, come back another day, pfffft!

Haenyeo mending their nets

Kyle (r) and his (helpful) friend Ji-An in front of a Haenyeo house in Pyoengdae village

Most villages have a tribute to the mermaids as they are also referred to.

Heanyeo statue near Gimnyeong village

Fisherman tending a net near Gimnyeong village

Woljeong village

Sehwa village

The port in Sehwa

As we inch along the coast scouting locations, we stop to visit Jeju’s famous landmarks.

Hamdoek, Jeju’s star beach

A statue in the water near Hamdoek village

Views of Handam coastal trail

Haenyeo statues at Gwakji beach

Colorful mural along the sea wall near Hallim port

The seascape at Sinchang is dominated by its famous wind turbines and a gigantic stainless steel statue of a Saw-edged perch protruding from the water.

Views of Sinchang wind farm

The Haenyeo house in Sinchang is no longer in use after two Haenyeo lost their lives in the particularly turbulent waters here last year.

Statue of a Haenyeo with Sinchang wind far in the background

September 24th is Chuseok, the Moon Festival; Korean Thanksgiving Day. The only place open is Starbucks. While the company’s massive expansion in Asia may be controversial, there is no escaping the revolution it has sparked in tea-drinking nations and the explosion of local and foreign chains vying for market share. In major cities worldwide, Starbucks Reserve, the haute couture iteration of the brand, is pushing the boundaries of selection, roasting technologies and creative blending. At long bars, lined with glass beakers, highly trained mixologists and baristas brew, filter and craft coffee. But I digress.

Sanseong Ilchulbang, a dormant volcano, is one of Jeju’s biggest tourist attractions.

Men fishing with dormant Seongsan Ilchulbong in the background

At the base of Seongsan Ilchulbong volcano

Opening conch shells

Freshly caught and prepared octopus

With a bit of persistence, we eventually meet the chief at one of the Haenyeo houses in Sanseong village who informs us of the next official outing and gives us permission to take photos.

We press for precise information regarding time and location as there are two spots where the women enter the water, then map out a plan taking into consideration all the variables in order to be as prepared as possible.

Kyle has just texted he’ll be late as we pull up to the first Haenyeo house a week later. The doors are locked but there are four sets of wet diving gear hanging outside! We rush over to the other house to find several Haenyeo who have already returned. Panic sets in as we process the scene. Is diving over? Have we been duped? Without our translator we cannot be sure. When he arrives we are relieved to hear that the divers who have come back are level 1 and 2 divers. The older, more experienced level 3 divers, who are permitted to go further offshore, have not yet come back. We race back to the first house, set-up and wait.

Eventually, one by one, divers come out of the water with full nets; sea urchins, conches, oysters, octopi,...

Sorting through the catch

Feeling somewhat obligated, we purchase some seafood and sit down at a makeshift table while the ladies prepare it for us.

Preparing seafood

Freshly caught, raw and extremely rubbery sea cucumber; a delicacy for some

Kyle dining at an impromptu Haenyeo house restaurant

We drive back to Jeju City for the night, before the flight back to Seoul.

Elin Hotel (36 euros), Jeju City

Jeju City street at night

Most of the Hanyeo we have photographed are in their 70s, some in their 80s. Very few are under 50. While efforts by the government and local communities to preserve and promote this living legacy have seen some renewed interest from young people disillusioned with urban life on the mainland, few today are choosing to seriously pursue this difficult, hazardous profession. No doubt the tourism authority and the Haenyeo Museum will continue to promote this exceptional tradition, but it’s clear that we are looking at the last generations of Jeju’s elite lady divers.