The Spice Chronicles

The plan was to go to Egypt. The war in Iran decided otherwise. If finding a flight wasn't such a hassle, we would have gone. It just wasn't worth the headache. Instead, we pivot to Greece where it's off-season, relatively inexpensive, and we're invited to a wedding in June leaving us almost 3 months to explore parts of the country we've not yet visited.

It feels like the middle of the day at Eleftherios Venizelos (Athens airport) with many flights arriving at midnight. Finding a taxi in the chaos resolves quickly as Uber and taxis work together.

The studio, a 10-minute walk north of Omonia Square is modern, clean and nicely equipped in direct contrast with the neighborhood. Our taxi driver is not happy that we've chosen this area and waits until we're inside the building.

WYZ Museum by Upstreet, Omonia, 46 euros/night, including tourist tax which went into effect recently but we'll soon learn, only seems to be levied sometimes...

There are lots of young men on the street exchanging who knows what, a few hookers, and graffiti on most facades. The police presence is equally visible. You'll want to be extra careful on Omonia Square if you're changing money, though you can spot the suspicious guys a mile away. While you probably should not choose this neighborhood for your vacation in Athens, it is away from the hoardes of tourists and souvenir shops, and just a few blocks from Exarchia, famously known as the anarchist neighborhood. With even more grafitti, both artistic and political, Exarchia is filled with cafes, restaurants and barber shops. A little gritty, offensive to some, yet so hip. At night the terraces overflow with live music, football (soccer) and groups of friends. Dinner in Athens starts around 8pm as daylight begins to fade. Like many European countries, smoking is still permitted. The only way to enjoy a terrace is to go early. Here's hoping that changes.

Athens is a fascinating collage of ruins and infrastructure to support massive tourism surrounded by distinct local neighborhoods, and it's all quite walkable. The Hellenic Heritage app is a free download that offers self-guided audio tours of many monuments and museums throughout Greece. Way too much information, but a great resource, AND, it'll amp your trivia game!

Our first order of business is to get the required documents that all swimmers (not just tourists) need to enter municipal pools. Of course, many hotels have pools, but if you're serious about swimming laps in a dedicated facility, you need a certificate from a cardiologist and a dermatologist. In many countries, getting such appointments could take weeks, but we luck out as walk-ins at a medical clinic near our flat. 24 hours later, astonished by the thorough medical evaluation and most reasonable cost, we register at Sarafeio Athletic Complex. The indoor pool is heated and the lifeguards are super nice. The changing rooms are rustic (I'm being polite) but the atmosphere is convivial. Every woman that enters or leaves greets the room, pausing the chatty banter for a split second. Our days schedule around midday, off-peak swim sessions. Later and into the evenings, we explore Athens by neighborhood on foot.

Monastiraki, Athens

The Church of Panagia Gorgoepikoos, Mitropoleos Square

One of many street markets in Athens

Yummy fava bean dip on every menu in Greece

A mural in the Psyri neighborhood

View from Anafiotika, the tiny enclave with Cylcadic-style homes hidden under the Acropolis in Plaka

Sunset at Areopagus Hill, Athens

We move to a fully-equipped apartment closer to the pool (46 eu/night), only to find it's below street level! I won't make that mistake again.

A close friend is living in Nafplio offering the best excuse to visit the Peloponnese. The 2-3 hour bus ride leaves hourly from the KTEL Kifissos bus station making Nafplio a popular destination for Athenians. The first capital of modern Greece in the mid-19th century, it is a picturesque city with beautiful Venetian architecture.

Nafplio, Greece

The streets of the Old Town

Views of Nafplio from Palamidi Fortress

Orthodox Easter procession in the Old Town

Rock tunnel on the Arvanitia Promenade, Nafplio

You can walk for miles along the rugged coast near Nafplio

We literally have the Olympic swimming pool in town to ourselves before the kids arrive after school.

Kostas Gouveris Swimming Center, Nafplio

There are several car rental agencies in Nafplio generally offering better pricing than online websites, but finding one open takes perseverance. A local points us to a small shop with a very kind man who not only gives us a great deal, he draws an itinerary enthusiastically on a folding map boldly circling places we must stop. It's refreshing to deal with a human who is so proud of his country. We drive away as his voice trails off, "Monemvasia, Limeni ... the olives in Kalamata... don't forget to try the cheese with a squeeze of lemon..." Our 10-day roadtrip takes us up, down and around the fingers of the Peloponnese from east to west.

Exceptional architecture of the Epidaurus Theater, built in the late 4th century BC

The small fishing village of Kilada

View of Ermioni

The startling thing is that we have the roads to ourselves and most villages seem deserted. It's probably the time of the year though it feels like it doesn't ever get too crowded outside the principal tourist spots. Cats seem to outnumber people and you can smell them! It turns out, this is the case all over Greece. Locals put out water, food, litter boxes and shelters. You can even sip your coffee and adopt a cat at the Cat Café in Athens. Like cows in India, cats are sacred in Greece.

Somewhere between Nafplio to Monemvasia

Trees dripping with the juiciest oranges

Roadside shrines (proskinitaria) are commonplace along the road.

Monemvasia is a monumental tourist attraction and for good reason. This fortified medieval town carved into a giant rock juts out from the coast. Hidden from seafaring enemies, the town and castle have not changed much since the 6th century. Beware, it's a 15-minute walk from the parking lot to the entrance with no shade. You can take a taxi or be dropped off at the entrance but no cars are allowed in. Wear comfortable shoes with grip. The stone steps inside are slick with centuries of wear. According to a photographer I know, the best shots are in the morning.

View of Monemvasia, Peloponnese

Lining up for an Orthodox Easter service inside the fortress

Orthodox priests preparing to perform the Easter service in Monemvasia

There are hotels inside, but we spend the night at a cute place overlooking the giant rock. I cannot imagine having to drag luggage inside the fort. This is Europe, and while the locals are often very helpful, you must be prepared to carry your bags. I'll just keep saying it, travel light with sensible shoes. Of course, we have way too much stuff and I'm hauling shoes and clothing I will hardly wear, but we travel full-time. Most of our belongings are with us. It annoys me every day, but I am prepared for most occasions.

Too much baggage!

Petrino Guesthouse, Monemvasia, 50 euros with breakfast and a view

Around every bend on the smooth coastal roads of the Peloponnese, the sea stares back at you. It's just beautiful. Temperatures are still quite cool in April but the sky is bright blue and the sun feels friendly. There isn't a soul on any of the rocky beaches and most places stay shuttered until mid-June

Lunch is usually a picnic on the road. We must hold a record for most visits to Lidl supermarkets in a month!

Daily picnic feast

Herd of sheep with Mount Taygetos in the background, near Kokkinia Beach

What's left of Dimitrios Shipwreck, an abandoned cargo ship on Valtaki Beach near Gythios

A church at the water's edge in Kokkala

Typical stone houses of the Mani Peninsula, Peloponnese

Hotel Lithos by the Sea, Neo Itilo near Limeni, 60 euros with breakfast

Home of perhaps the most famous, certainly tastiest, olive, the city of Kalamata is also known for its mouthwatering suckling pig. We dig in at Thiasos an unassuming taverna in the historic center.

Suckling pig and black-eyed peas with spinach and chickpeas

Evelin Studio apartments, 15 minutes from Kalamata center, 40 eur/night run by a lovely family

Built by the Venetians in the 13th century, conquered by the Ottomans, the Egyptians and the Franks, Methoni Castle is an absolute marvel. Surrounded by the sea on three sides, the ruins of this massive stone structure ooze historical anecdotes. Every conqueror reshaped this strategic Mediterranean stronghold to suit his mood. Hat, sunscreen and comfortable shoes are de rigeur as you meander among the ruins.

Methoni Castle, Peloponnese

Olympia dates to the end of the Neolithic Era (4000 BC). It became the center of worship of Zeus in the 10th century BC, but remains most famous as the birthplace of the Olympic Games in 776 BC. Men competed peacefully under a Sacred Truce vying only for a symbolic olive wreath. With few exceptions, women were not permitted to watch or participate in the games until the beginning of the 20th century.

Olympia, Peloponnese, Greece

Archaeological Museum of Olympia

Nike of Paionios

Hotel Pelops, Olympia, 60 eu/breakfast

Don't forget to use the Hellenic Heritage app at all of these sites in Greece.

With the gateway to the Ionian islands just an hour from Olympia we head to Killini and board the next ferry which happens to be headed to the island of Zakynthos. On the way over, I book a double room at Zante Nest hotel for the low-season rate of 35 euros/night. Of course if you are travelling in high season, you'll want to reserve the (car) ferry and hotel ahead, but at the end of April when the sea is too cold for the less brave among us, and many places are still closed, last minute reservations are easy to come by.

Zante Nest Hotel, Zakynthos

If you can handle the cold water, the pool is yours at this time of year

it's hard to imagine the view that awaits you at the end of this road...

Navagio Beach, AKA Shipwreck Beach

Crystal clear water near the Blue Caves

Mizithres Rocks, Zakynthos

Zante Chora - Zakynthos Town

A note about ferries: compare ferry sites, check schedules carefully especially off-season, and always leave extra time for potential delays or cancellations due to bad weather or simply high winds. Never cut it too close with flights.

Back on the mainland, we drive east thru the central mountains of the Peloponnese stopping in small villages as we make our way back to Nafplio to return the car. We're already planning a second roadtrip after a pause in Athens.

Excellent mountain roads throughout the Peloponnese

Andritsaina village

Church of Ayios Andreas on a path in Lousios Gorge leading to the

Monastery of St. John the Baptist (Prodromos) built into the rock

Stemnitsa village

Kandylakia, are the oil lamps that burn eternally inside the miniature roadside shrines

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A new apartment rental, shopping at the street markets and sharing our stories from the Peloponnese with friends at the pool; we're starting to feel like locals in Athens.

Apartment in Petralona, Athens by Upstreet, 60 euros/night

Mural, Nea Ionia neighborhood Athens

Sumptuous oranges on offer

The Acropolis at night

The second part of our Greek odyssey is coming soon. In the meantime remember:

In Greece, do not flush the toilet paper, period!

Air travel these days requires extreme patience and flexibility. A long trip to Indonesia, gets a whole lot longer when the first of three flights is cancelled due to a runway shutdown. But I applaud Air France. Within an hour, we're rebooked for the following day and informed via What's App. All good, but given the original early departure, we're at the airport the night before and the airline is not responsible for us. Some quick thinking and we snag one of the few available rooms nearby.

This is our life.

40 hours later, we arrive in Jakarta after midnight local time. Be advised, there are new mandatory procedures for entering Indonesia (and other Asian countries), easily completed online within 3 days of arrival, expediting you thru immigration and customs.

The self-check-in instructions at the Sapphire Tower at Menteng Park Apartments are easy. We've stayed in this complex of three skyscrapers with massives pools, gyms, and cafes, before. Our studio on the 36th floor is modern and fully equipped. We settle right in.

Sapphire Tower, Menteng Park Apartments, Jakarta

Jakarta is not a place to spend much time, but it's useful for grabbing cheap flights to the rest of Indonesia and getting things repaired. ITC Roxy Mas is the mall for all things tech. Booth after booth will repair your damaged phone screen, replace batteries, troubleshoot your computer, etc. For the most part, everyone is honest and helpful. However, as the only "bules" pronounced boolays, (foreigners), trust your instincts and negotiate.

ITC Roxy Mas

Killing time with fresh sugarcane juice at the mall

A man covered in metaliic paint begging in Jakarta traffic

Getting a local prepaid SIM card remains the cheapest option for cellular data. Around $15 for 1 month with 40 Gb data. However, big brother requires you to register the IMEI of your phone, though there is conflicting information on this requirement for shorter stays. Buy the SIM at the airport or at an XL or Telkomsel shop in Central Park Mall. We'll find out weeks later, having bought XL, that Telkomsel has the bigger footprint in more remote areas.

Central Park Mall Jakarta

View of Menteng Park Apartments from the public, olympic-size swimming pool next door

Squid Hitam (4 euros) at Tugu Kawi Sapi Menteng Cafe, Jakarta

3 euros for excellent laundry service at Menteng Apartments, Jakarta

The plan is to tour rural Java by car, but driving in Indonesia is a dangerous endeavor. They drive on the left, the steering wheel and gearbox are on the right, and unofficial rules include:
- only worry about what's in front of you,
- obey traffic lights if it suits you,
- cross double lines when you feel like it,
- pass on any type of road,
- park wherever you want.

Renting a car the local way is also peculiar. People advertise on social media, you pay at an Indomaret (the ubiquitous convenience store chain), and the car is delivered, sometimes late at night. There are no add-ons like insurance or third party liability, and you pay by the day, extending by What's App as you go. Be sure to confirm the specifics about authorized regions, mileage, etc. with the owner upfront.

Best to let a local organize and drive.

We decide to meet our car & driver in Central Java. Indonesia's intercity trains are very clean with extraordinary leg room and space to recline without annoying the person behind you; hint to airlines. The 5-hour trip to Semarang is extremely comfortable - 30 euros per person.

Ryokhan Semarang Hotel is a mere $15 euros for the super cute room. Very Japanese.

Heavy rain in Semarang, Central Java

 
An hour's drive from Semarang, the village of Timbulsloko used to be agricultural; now the homes are underwater and the farmers are fishing. Villagers who remain, live on the upper floors of their homes and have built boardwalks to get around. Climate change deniers should spend a day here, especially when it's raining.

A woman riding her motorbike on the path leading to Timbulsloko

Drone shot of the village of Timbulsloko

 

During high tide and heavy rain, the water is almost as high as the boardwalk

Living conditions in Timbulsloko

A little boy navigating the boardwalks in the evening

Most towns in Java have budget hotels by Urbanview or Red Doors. Some are (much) better than others. Always check the room before you commit. Many have the word Syariah in the name, meaning they adhere to Sharia law and couples must be married in order to share a room. The rules are less strict for Western tourists, but some hotels turn away foreigners because the registration process is lengthy.

Prambanan Temple is a UNESCO world Heritage site near Yogyakarta, aka "Jogja".  It is the largest Hindu temple complex in Indonesia made up of 240 temples and as many shrines, built between the 8th and 10th centuries. The exterior walls of the temples depict over 1000 stories of the (Indian) Ramayana epic.

Prambanan Temple, Yogyakarta

For 11 euros, you get two hangers and a mirror at this Red Doors hotel near Prambanan Temple. Who chooses brown sheets?

Just an hour away, sits another UNESCO site. Borobudur, the "monastery on the hill," is the largest Buddhist temple in the world (9th century). You trade in your shoes for sandals, stitched by locals and yours to keep, before walking to the temple in groups accompanied by a guide. There are nine stacked platforms topped by a dome and over 500 statues of Buddha. Here too, the facades are intricately carved with legends.

Borobudur Temple, Java

It's possible to visit both sites in one day, but each is exhausting under the blazing sun, many steps, and so much information to assimilate. Take more time if you have it.

Often, the rooms we book include breakfast. When there is no restaurant, the food, prepared early in the morning, is left at the door. It's usually cold nasi goreng (fried rice) topped with a rubbery egg. Indonesians don't seem to mind cold food or that in restaurants dishes arrive one at a time. How often one of us has eaten while the other waits. Sometimes there's a nice surprise. 

Delicious eggs and great coffee at a cafe in a small town

The waiter, who has never seen a Westerner, calls the boss and hands me the phone. He is so grateful that we chose his restaurant. After a photo with the staff, they send us off with food for our journey!

At Olive Cafe in Cirebon, I try (new favorite) corn ribs, and a delicious, hot, immune-boost beverage made of turmeric, ginger, orange, lemon and honey.

Yummy corn ribs

Above the restaurant, Kukoa Family Massage offers Japanese reflexology. I get the Sensai Japanese stretch which gives new meaning to the word. Wonderfully painful - 1 hour, 12 euros. 

The Statue of Liberty in the countryside near Bogor

Mie Ayam (chicken noodle soup) for lunch in a small village - 75 cents!

Chickens for sale at a market

Bogor city seems very upscale with lots of restaurants and big hotels. At Onih Hotel, every floor is themed. It's old-fashioned and past its heyday, see wallpaper above the bed, but quite comfy at 18 euros for the room.

Lobby Onih Hotel, Bogor, West Java

Indonesian themed floor

Part two of this trip is Sumatra; a total change of scenery.

Orangutan Haven, 22 kms. outside of Medan, Sumatra, is the brand new sanctuary built by Dr. Ian Singleton, Director of the Sumatran Orangutan Conservation Programme (SOCP), to provide the best possible living conditions for injured or traumatized orangutans who cannot be released back into the wild. The only lodging nearby is a convent.

Cinta Alam Christian retreat, Twin beds, no AC or hot water, 30 euros with breakfast, lunch and dinner for two

The nuns attending service

For us foreigners, every move in this sweltering heat and humidity is an effort. It's 20 minutes on hilly, rocky terrain to get to the (7) orangutans who each have their own small island with interior and exterior spaces, ropes and trees to climb, hammocks, and other structures to laze around on.

The path we trudge up and down on several times a day

Drone view of the orangutan habitats

These are diistressed animals. Several are blind, one is amputated. Each has dedicated caretakers who monitor all their activity. 

Leuser, a blind male, relaxing on a perch

Dek Nong, rescued from being kept illegally as a pet, shielding herself from the rain

After a few days, we've gotten to know each orangutan. Some are indifferent to us, Fahzren, rescued from animal shows, clearly hates us. Whenever we show up he becomes agitated and demonstrates. Point a camera, he turns away or covers his face. One time, he rips a tree out of the ground and attempts to throw it at us!

Fahzren displaying on the ropes

At the convent, we ask about the dogs that seem so afraid of us. We know that in parts of Indonesia dog is on the menu, listed inconspicuously as B1. Two young nuns tell us they eat dog and seem surprised that we don't.

After 5 days of discomfort, we head back to Medan and check-in to a nice hotel with a big, comfortable bed, hot rain shower and A/C - divine. We head out for sushi and finish the evening with a 90 minute oil massage for 12 euros!

Rooftop pool at the Swiss Belinn Gajah Mada hotel, Medan

Watermelon smoothie, 2 euros, at Bingo Cafe

A delivery guy taking a break

The nicest tailor in town

Unless you're a surfer, you've probably never heard of the Mentawai islands that sit about 100 kms off the coast of West Sumatra. From Medan, it's a 1-hour flight to Padang where you need to spend the night in order to catch an early ferry that only operates on certain days. And then there's the weather, causing ferries to cancel last minute. It can be tricky to organize and your plans must be flexible. We end up spending an extra night in Padang while others have been stranded on either side for days. If you're travelling to Mentawai, you'll want to have the Telkomsel SIM.

On the river in Padang

Muslim girl at ease on her self-balancing scooter

The warehouse district in Padang under rennovation

Hawker Chinese restaurant, Padang

Pregnant women are not allowed to play pool!

 

The 4-hour Mentawai Fast ferry to Sipura, the most developed island, is typical; tightly packed with reserved seats that you cannot choose, blasting A/C, and action movies blaring in Indonesian on big screens.

The guesthouse picks us up at the pier in Tuapejat. The 15-minute drive takes us through small dilapidated villages surrounded by virgin forests and stunning seascapes with hardly a soul. Accommodations run from basic guesthouses to all-in surf camps. Warungs (local restaurants) serve nasi goreng (fried rice) or mie goreng (sauteed noodles). Paradise with little infrastructure.

Tuapejat, Sipura Island, Mentawai

Suzi Beach House is one of the nicer budget places in north Sipura run by super kind, helpful people.

Deluxe double with breakfast, 37 euros

Lobby and restaurant

Stormy weather continues

Catching a wave at sunset

Men playing games in the evening

A church in Tuapejat

Dinner lit by the phone during a power outtage at Suzi Beach House

The kids here love surfing, playing in the river and flying kites.

A man and his geese

We rent a scooter to visit the island and somehow manage to avoid soaking rain. The three-hour ride south to Lance's Right, one of the popular waves accesible from the beach, is pretty if you're up for the adventure. Virgin forest, gorgeous coastline and little development. You can also hire a driver (car or boat) from Tuapejat to take you. Choosing to stay north or south depends on if you're surfing or not and how experienced you are. Either way, the currents are rough. Be careful.

At La Belle Restaurant and Resort, we settle in for a delicious lunch with a view.

Surfing Lance's Right, Sipura Island, Mentawai

After days of rain, the weather clears and we decide to extend our stay, but there are no rooms available. The owner of our guesthouse puts me in touch with a resort on nearby Awera Island that offers us an all-inclusive deal that's too good to pass up. While we wait for our boat taxi at the pier, the ferry from Padang arrives with special guests.

Traditional dancers from the neighboring island of Siberut welcome the governor and his entourage

Drone view of Nasara Resort, Awera Island, Mentawai

Diving right in

Indonesian tourists visiting Awera Island

Grilling fresh fish on the beach

Rough surf on one side

Reinforcing sandbags

Gorgeous evenings, Nasara Resort, Awera Island, Mentawai

We leave because we have to and head back to Jakarta where we enjoy fine dining and pampering in the big city.

Instructions for using a Western toilet

I get a divine 90' steam, body scrub, and massage at Martha Tilaar Spa - 37 euros! A couple of days later, at another place, I go for a 90' facial with all sorts of machines. I swear I look younger, well, for a day anyway!

This guy is having his own spa treatment

August 17th is Indonesia's Independence Day.

Posing in front of Garuda Pancasila, the national emblem of Indonesia

Celebrating the day in local colors

The best view of the fireworks is from our studio, Jakarta

And this right here is the final word.

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More beautiful beaches, stunning scenery, Bali 30 years ago..., some of the descriptions that piqued our interest in Lombok. Hoping for Bali without the crowds, we head to the island for 20 days with the added mission of choosing the best spots for friends who will join us for a short week at the end of January. There’s good, bad and ugly. May it provide insight and help you plan the perfect trip.

We fly into Kuta, Lombok (not to be confused with Kuta, Bali), famous for beautiful beaches and exceptional surf. Like Bali, scooters abound, but here they are fitted with surfboards confirming my first impression that we (>60) are older than most!

On a dirt side street next to Bara, one of many vibrant bars and restaurants on Kuta’s main road, 3-star Zifa Mandalika is a cute, basic hotel with several bungalows and a few rooms around a small, tidy swimming pool. For 22 euros the bed is comfortable, the shower’s hot, the A/C works, and the TV is smart. Best of all, it’s in the center of town but quiet, and that means a lot. Predominantly Muslim, Lombok’s nickname, “island of 1000 mosques,” is hardly an exaggeration during the call to prayer 5x a day: a day that starts long before any rooster.

Zifa Mandalika, Kuta Lombok

Breakfast for 2 (8 eu) at Blue Marlin, run by a talented young French chef

Along the southern coast in either direction, Lombok offers many beaches, with levels of surf from beginner to expert, surrounded by rugged hills, and basic infrastructure for sunbathing, eating and drinking. Note: in the tourist areas, alcohol is readily available. We set off to visit the most popular beach, Tanjung Aan, east of Kuta. The roads are impeccable, but signage is confusing. Even the GPS has a hard time as brand new roads wrap around each other often ending abruptly. It’s obvious there are big expansion plans here, with parking spaces painted in the middle of nowhere. There’s hardly any traffic and many take the liberty of driving on the wrong side, already the wrong side for westerners, but common sense will guide you. There is a 10000 rupee (< $1) entrance fee for most beaches.

We turn off before reaching Tanjung Aan beach. From the parking lot, it’s a 10-minute walk up a winding path to Bukit Merese a wide, grassy area on the cliffs overlooking Tanjung Aan to the left and the rugged coastline back toward Kuta to the right.

View from Bukit Merese

It’s a popular place for sunset even when it's cloudy.

To our dismay, litter is scattered everywhere. This we’ll find, is a recurring theme all over Lombok. Insufficient waste management and lack of awareness and education are significant challenges facing this, like many other island nations. Indonesia is investing in reducing plastic waste, and there are burgeoning local initiatives, but with few places to put collected trash, much gets burned in small, individual piles, usually in the early evening.

It’s been raining and the dirt track towards Tanjung Aan looks rather muddy, so we ride out to the main road and continue along the coast eventually reaching Pantai Muluq Indah Permai, where a group of Sasak (the local ethnicity that makes up 85% of Lombok’s population) is harvesting seaweed. It seems obvious that soon, they will be evicted from this pristine beachfront to make way for hospitality development.

Locals harvesting seaweed at Pantai Muluk Indah Permai, Gerupuk

With menacing clouds, we decide to make our way back to town, stopping briefly at the Pertamina Mandalika International Circuit. In between official races and events, one area of the track is open to spectators. We climb the bleachers to watch a few riders. Virtually alone, we can only imagine the crowds and the noise that take over during the races.

Practice runs at Pertamina Mandalika International Circuit

Eventually, we get to Tanjung Aan and Pantai Aan.

Low tide at the rocky end of Tanjung Aan beach

Overlooking Pantai Aan beach from the top of the rock formation that separates the two beaches

We are completely off season. In fact, January is not even low season, it’s called the dead season. The skies are stormy and there are just a few diehard surfers. The loungers, umbrellas and food stalls are rundown or abandoned, but the coconuts are huge and refreshing.

Navigating a flooded road in Kuta

Seger Beach, a popular surf spot during the dry season

Surfers at Seger Beach

Heading west along the coast, there are plenty of beaches to discover. One of the nicest is Tampah Beach, though getting to it isn’t easy. The dirt road is long and bumpy especially after the rain. We ditch the bike and walk the last km. The beauty and seclusion of this beach is worth it. There are just a few basic warungs (small family-run restaurants), some loungers. and the locals proudly pick up trash, claiming that this is the cleanest beach in Lombok. It is certainly nicer than nearby Mawun beach, on this day anyway. But for my money, the most beautiful beach, is Lancing Beach. It helps that the beach is maintained by Tampah Hills, a luxury villa resort overlooking the beach. Brand new loungers, great food, beautiful sand and sea. Just perfect if you’re looking for something more upscale and accordingly, a bit pricier. But be careful: there are no lifeguards and the current here is very, very strong. Don't fight it and stay close to shore.

Sipping coconut water on Lancing Beach

Around 4PM, locals guide herds of buffalo right across the beach! I wonder how much longer this will be tolerated?

After a few days of beach bumming. We strap a few belongings to the scooter (5 eu/day) and set off to explore the rest of Lombok. Heading west from Kuta along the southern coast, we stop at Selang Belanek beach, considered one of the best beginner surf spots. A quick look at the dozens of warungs and surf schools blasting reggae and we hightail it out of there. Wrong generation.

On the road between Blongas and Sekotong

Sekotong is the main town on the southwest peninsula, facing the “Secret Gilis” - a cluster of lesser-known gilis (islands), far smaller than the superstars of the north - Gili Trawangan, Gili Air and Gili Menos - that sit in between Lombok and Bali.

There are only a few hotels open around Sekotong. Silver Fern has the best deal (30 euros with breakfast). It's run by an affable New Zealander, who welcomes us, the only customers, with a beer!

Silver Fern Resort

The beaches in this region aren't nearly as nice as anything we’ve seen around Kuta, and there is garbage all along the road as well.

Trash on the beach near Sekotong

At the extreme western tip of the peninsula, Desert Point is famous for its elusive, expert, left-hand barrel wave. Getting there is an adventure. We navigate the cratered, partly flooded dirt road but decide it’s too risky for the bike and stop where the road splits left to Desert Point, right to Bangko Bangko.

As we prep for a long, uphill hike, a truck hauling cows offers us a ride. The driver registers my facial expression then waves us into the front where we contort into the (occupied) passenger seat. What a road! His driving skills are impressive.

Off-season, bad weather, and no surfers, only a handful of locals are hanging around a small warung.

Everybody is waiting for food at Desert Point

We settle in with a delicious soup overlooking the legendary spot where today, not much is happening.

The walk back to our bike takes an hour. For now, Bangko Bangko, in the other direction, is a sleepy fishing village on the southwest tip of Lombok, but you can smell development in the air.

It’s a long, uninteresting ride north along the west coast to Mataram, the capital of Lombok (population >400,000).
We stop for the night at Dewi Sri Guesthouse on a small side street in the center. The pool area is nice, much nicer than the room (24 euros).

Dewi Sri Guesthouse, Mataram

There's no restaurant. Most people order from delivery apps, but we prefer to eat out and walk to the main street in between downpours eventually finding a warung serving padang (steamed rice served with various dishes). It's lukewarm, as is often the case with padang, since the food is precooked, but it's tasty and the rice is always hot.

Having seen the many beautiful Hindu temples of Bali, we decide to skip the few in Mataram and head up the coast to Senggigi. Famous for its luxury resorts, the town has lost its luster since its heyday in the 90s, but there are some luxururious properties for those who prefer to set their bags down and not leave the compound. Senggigi is also convenient for ferries to and from the main Gili islands and Bali.

Black sand beach on Lombok's west coast near Senggigi

Another 15 minutes further north along the coast, a small wooden sign catches my eye. A friend had mentioned the 5-star Seven Secrets Resort. We loop back and follow the road to the entrance on the beach. We are the only guests and decide to stay for lunch on their gorgeous stretch of sand. I visit a couple of rooms around the pristine pool. For deep pockets only, even off-season.

Gastronomy at Seven Secrets Resort

Looking back at the resort

The scenery changes dramatically as we leave the coast and ride inland 60 kms to Senaru, gateway town on the north side of Mt. Rinjani, the 2nd highest (active) volcano in Indonesia. The rain that has been menacing all day, bursts from the clouds just as we pull in to Pondok Guru Bakti Cottage.

Clouds covering Mount Rinjani

Pondok Guru Bakti Cottage, Senaru

Room with breakfast 18 euros

In the morning, we snap a few shots of the volcano before it disappears in the clouds.

The pool at Pondok Guru Bakti Cottage, with Mount Rinjani in the distance

Trekking is closed from Jan - April as it’s too dangerous to climb during the wet season, but there’s plenty of nice hiking in the area. We hire a guide for the Panorama tour, a 4-hour walk that starts with Sendang Gile waterfall.

On the path to Sendang Gile waterfall

We do not make it to the much bigger Tiu Kelep falls because it’s pouring rain, and the slick path requires crossing a river at two points in deep rushing water. This would be much easier and more fun in the dry season. Instead, we walk through small coffee and cocoa fields and past a traditional Sasak village, then follow a path through verdant rice fields. It’s raining really hard, but it’s a beautiful bucolic scene.

Hiking around Senaru with our guide

Cocoa plant

Coffee

Angel's Trumpet flower (Brugmansia)

Rice terraces around Senaru

Even the money is drenched!

A very large (7 in/8 cm), injured Polyphemus moth

The rain holds off as we wind our way to the southern side of Mount Rinjani. We stop at Bukit Sembalun for a photo opp on the star-shaped platform up a steep hill, then get caught in a heavy downpour on the way down. A local waves us into his covered stall to wait it out.

The valley of Sembalun

Sheltering with locals during a massive downpour at the entrance to Bukit Sembalun

During a brief dry spell, we race back to town and decide to spend the night at Rinjani Green Park hotel across the street from a large open-air restaurant overlooking a patchwork of plantations. Again, we are the only tourists.

Terrassawah restaurent, Sembalun

Fields of celery, tomatoes, chilis, and of course rice

Rinjani Green Park Hotel (center), Sembalun (21 euros)

The road to Tetebatu, a village on the opposite (southern) slope of Mount Rinjani, winds smoothly through the hills. Groups of gray monkeys sit in the middle, people-watching as vehicles navigate around them.

Schoolgirls on the road

Working the rice fields

Giant Asian Praying Mantis (Hierodula membranacea)

Les Rizières is one of a dozen guesthouses in Tetebatu. Run by a lovely French couple, it oozes charm and comfort with thoughtful detail for a well-planned stay. Our lovely room is 41 euros/night with breakfast.

Semi-outdoor bathroom

Stunning communal terrace and view

They organize a full-day guided hike through rice fields, a small waterfall, a forest with black monkeys, and more.

A woman working in a garden near a mosque

Schoolboys cooling off with ice-cold treats

Walkway leading to the waterfall

Wading over rocks to reach the falls

One of many mosques under construction

Roasting fresh coffee

A talented Indonesian chef prepares all our meals at the guesthouse.

A savory, loaded noodle soup

Nasi Goreng with chicken and freshly made-to-order pickles

Mahalo Cafe overlooking rice terraces in the nearby village of Loyok

Chatting with local girls at Mahalo Cafe

A truck full of chickens in Tetebatu

A group of women watching a funeral pass by

Without hesitation, we book two of the five rooms to return with our friends. Tetebatu and Les Rizières remains one of the highlights of our trip to Lombok.

From Tetebatu, it’s a straight shot to the east coast, then north along the water. We’re looking for a place called Big Tree Sambelia. We did not realize just how big. It’s Friday and there isn’t a soul, but the gate looks kind of open so I test it and sure enough. The 300-year-old Ficus albipila, a type of fig tree, is humongous. The exact number of trees in the grove is hard to tell, but they seem so out of place here.

Continuing north, Pondok Siola is a small resort that sits on a black-sand beach facing a few tiny uninhabited gilis (islands) off the east coast.

Pondok Siola resort, Labuhan Pandan

The beach in front of the resort

The sky is ominous, yet the sun is shining over the islands, so we quickly hire a boat and set off to test the snorkeling. I jump into very choppy water at Gili Bidara only to find three small fish swimming around dead coral. The boatman waves furiously at me to swim on, so I Iet the strong current take me and drift along a drop-off, but the water is murky and the wind whips the surface rattling my snorkel: this will not do.

Stop 2 is a sandbar with no reef.

I pose for the requisite photo opp and hope for better visuals at stop 3 - Gili Kondo which is now framed by a beautiful cloud formation.

Here, the reef is alive with plenty of small colorful fish and the water is calm. It’s decent, but not worth the detour for our friends who will only have a few days in Lombok. We spend the night at Pondok Siola and head south in the morning (30 euros with breakfast).

One of many mosques on the road between Sambelia and Tanjung Luar

The town of Tanjung Luar is famous for its fish market, but that was over at 6AM. We roll in at 1PM and we’re hungry. Google insists there is a lobster restaurant in the vicinity, but we ride around in circles to no avail. Famished, we stop at a small pier where 3 westerners are standing by a van. A quick chat and we realize how lucky we are to have stopped. The team is from Project Hiu (Indonesian for shark), an association that is saving sharks by converting shark fin fisherman to conservation and tourism. According to the team, the best snorkeling and diving in Lombok leaves from this very spot. We take their info and plan to test their day trip from Lombok with our friends. But this has not solved our immediate hunger problem. A local motions us to a boat at the end of the pier that shuttles us 50 meters to a floating fish farm and restaurant.

Within minutes, we’ve settled on cushions at a low table for a delicious meal.

Choosing lobsters on the floating platform

Freshly cooked lobster - 33 euros for 2

The only inconvenience at this restaurant is the restroom…

We make our way down the southeast side of Lombok, but decide to skip Pink Beach. The reviews are less than favorable and the weather is not cooperating at all. We stop for a quick look at Ekas Beach and Awang where I thought we might spend the night, but in this season, the hotel I’ve picked is hardly ready for customers. The guy at reception, who will need time to clean and open a room for us, suggests we’ll be much more comfortable and have food options in Kuta which is just 20 minutes away. We beeline it back to town and settle into a (nicer) bungalow (30 euros) at Zifa Mandalika while we contemplate which of the many good restaurants in town we want to eat at.

On the road between Awang and Kuta

Bunglow @Zifa Mandalika, Kuta

At this point, we’ve seen virtually everything Lombok has to offer.

9-day tour of Lombok on a scooter

Our friends join us and we return to our favorite spots including:

Lancing Beach

Seger Beach

Tetebatu

The terrace overlooking rice fields at Les Rizières, Tetebatu

We end our trip to Lombok in Kuta with a day of snorkeling organized by Project Hiu. The weather isn't perfect, but the crew is great and the reefs are the best we've seen in Lombok. Every time the fishermen take tourists out for the day, sharks live a little longer. Support this cause!

Day trip with Project Hiu

So, how does Lombok compare to Bali? It doesn’t. Lombok is its own island, with its own culture, sites and rhythm. The beaches in the south are stunning, the mountain landscapes are beautiful, the people are kind and welcoming, the roads are excellent, the prices are right for all budgets (especially in the low season) and the island is not (yet) overdeveloped. But the sound of competing mosques can be frankly irritating, there is visible waste along the roads and on many beaches, viewpoints and other pubic areas, and the beautiful Hindu aesthetic that permeates every inch of Bali is virtually nonexistent. All we can say is visit both and decide for yourselves. We'd be thrilled to hear what you think.

With a night to spend in Jakarta, we swim at Kolam Renang Cikini, a public outdoor, olympic size pool, and visit Kota Tua - Old Town, Jakarta.

Bicycles for rent on the main square in Old Town

Man selling rambutan fruit

Colonial landmark, Café Batavia, Old Town, Jakarta

The day ends with a traditional royal feast at Lara Djonggrang Restaurant located in a Dutch mansion in the Menteng area of Central Jakarta.

Djonggrang Restaurant, Jakarta

About 6 eu per platter

Daun Residence, Jakarta - double room, 32 euros

We've been travelling for over 11 years and Thailand has emerged as a favorite stop. Until now, we’ve avoided Phuket for its reputation of mass tourism, but friends are living there so we drop our preconceived notions and plan a visit in the off-season. Of course, if you're on a short beach holiday, I would recommend visiting between November - April when the surf is less agitated and the jellyfish are vacationing elsewhere.

The studio at Re-Life The Windy, in the Nai Harn area of Rawai, is compact but super cute. The sunken bed challenges our joints and reminds us how important maintaining flexibility is. The rooftop pool is beautiful, Cafe Canelle next door is excellent, and we rent a scooter across the street from a friendly local lady. It's so easy and comfortable, we immediately extend a few nights.

Studio at Re-Life The Windy, Nai Harn - 37 euros/night

Monsoon season is kicking in, but we're equipped and ready to dodge the short, violent downpours in between periods of blazing, sun. The half hour scooter ride to Phuket Old Town is scorching, but the colorful Sino-Portuguese architecture, well-executed street art, and many shops and restaurants are worth the detour.

Homage to Thailand’s beloved King Bhumipol who passed away in 2016.

We collapse into the tiny air-conditioned Cafe’In and revive with ice-cold watermelon and mango smoothies. In retrospect, a later afternoon visit would have been smarter.

Nai Harn beach is just a short ride from our place. We score a table with a view and enjoy a late lunch at Rock Salt restaurant on the beach next to the Nai Harn Hotel.

Nai Harn beach, Rawai, Phuket

Sunset at Promthep Cape, Rawai

Choosing dinner at Rawai Seafood Night Market; cooked your way and served in the restaurant across the street.

A ride up the western coast of Phuket offers extraordinary views, a variety of beaches, and the very commercial Patong, famous for its neon nightlife. Kata Noi, Kata, Karon, each beach has its personality. We stop to swim at Kamala Beach where the surf is as good as the beach massage. In fact, most of our days in Thailand end with (8 euro) massages.

The beaches on the western coast of Phuket

Bangla Road, Patong

Phuket is so big it hardly feels like an island. And while some of the beaches are beautiful, we want to get away from the vast condo complexes, shopping centers, and frenetic nightlife. There are many islands (some mythic) off the coast, accessible by a network of ferries and speedboats, but be mindful in the off-season, routes and schedules are reduced.

The ferry to Koh Phi Phi takes 2 hours. My heart sinks as the ferry slows to offer a good view of (infamous) Maya Beach, located on an adjacent uninhabited island, that has recently reopened. If you've been living under a rock, Maya Beach rose to fame (and was destroyed thereafter by "set jetting") in the 2000 movie, The Beach, starring Leonardo DiCaprio. It closed to visitors in 2018 to give the coral a chance to recover. Already in low season, it is jammed with visitors. You cannot swim, but you can pose.

Crowded Maya Beach, Koh Phi Phi

Karst formations surrounding Maya Beach

The only thing worse is Koh Phi Phi itself. As soon we step off the ferry, I want to leave, but we’ve prepaid a couple of nights and I want to believe it’s not as bad as it looks. It is. There are no cars just yellow-tiled streets lined with crappy hotels, shops, and loud bars. It's definitely not Oz and represents everything that's wrong with tourism. This beats anything we've seen since we started traveling in 2013. Maybe we’re too old. I wonder what the 20-somethings think.

For 32 euros, the room at family-run PP Insula is basic but clean, quiet, and close to the ferry.

There aren't many people hiking the humid, slippery trails to Koh Phi Phi’s three viewpoints.

Plumeria flowers on the path

A kaleidoscope of Tirumala butterflies

The panoramic views are beautiful and heartbreaking as we try to picture the giant wave that barreled through here, sweeping away thousands of lives.

Overlooking the bay that was pummeled by the 2004 tsunami, Koh Phi Phi

Surprisingly cosy dinner at Basil Bistro away from the beer pong

Walking along the beach after dinner

Very, very loud Banded bullfrogs come out at night during monsoon season

Given erratic boat schedules, frequent downpours and hostile seasonal surf, we skip the more remote islands further south (like Koh Lipe) and head east to Koh Lanta, a large island off mainland Thailand, south of Krabi.

Ferry to Koh Lanta

Koh Lanta is also the name and first shooting location of the French version of Survivor (2001). I could be guilty of set jetting. Famous for its very long stretches of sand and laidback atmosphere, it seems to cater to large groups. There are many big resorts along the western coast, though they are not too visible especially since most are closed in May. The few that are open are practically giving rooms away and the beaches are deserted. We've chosen name appropriate, LaLaanta Hideaway Resort. From the ferry, an open jeep drops us at the southern end of the island, a couple of miles from the national park. Tucked away on Bamboo Beach, the small resort is quite pretty with spacious bungalows. I should not complain given the price, but it really could use a makeover. Still, we're quite pleased with our room and we're able to rent a scooter; essential for getting around. Not a fan of the monkeys in this less developed part of the island, but I remind myself that we are the trespassers.

The bungalow at La Laanta Hideaway Resort is a steal at 36 euros with breakfast, Koh Lanta

Bamboo Beach is virtually private at the resort, but the only ones enjoying the rough surf are the casserole-size jellyfish!

View of Bamboo Beach from a distance. La Laanta Hideaway, lives up to its name.

Nearby, Kantiang Bay

Low tide at the lighthouse, Mu Koh Lanta National Park

The east coast of Koh Lanta is much less developed and has a distinctly local vibe.

Koh Lanta Old Town pier

A fishing village on the southeast coast

Due north of Koh Lanta, Krabi is the capital of southern Thailand. Like Phuket, the limestone karst formations, white sand beaches, and turquoise waters are stunning, Our hotel, Keereen Reeort, is in a forested area away from the pretty, but far too crowded for us, beach in Ao Nang. Brand new, the rooms are very comfortable overlooking a pristine pool with a gorgeous natural backdrop. Opening promo - 30 euros with a delicious breakfast.

As usual, we immediately rent a scooter.

A man and his elephant

Noppharat Thara beach, Ao Nang

Seafood salad with glass noodles, 4 Euros at Chomlay Restaurant, Ao Nang

On a ride through Krabi Town we stop along the river to admire the view. A friendly local convinces us to take a private longboat tour that turns out to be a lot of fun.

Longboat tour from Krabi town

Navigating through the mangrove

Koh Klang village on the Krabi River

We get off the boat to visit Khao Kanab Naam cave,

and a floating fish farm and restaurant.

The only way to reach the Railay peninsula is by boat. From one end of Ao Nang beach, longboats take you to Railay Beach in 15 minutes. Tickets are bought at a small kiosk in town. Once there are enough people, a shuttle takes you to the boat. Make sure you buy your return ticket (boat and shuttle) to avoid confusion and overpriced taxis on the return.

Boat to Railay Beach

Railay Beach, Krabi

Shrimp Pad Thai at Princess Resort, Railay East

The prettiest place in western Thailand has to be Khao Sok National Park. After much thought - Daytrip? Overnight? Hike the forest? Visit just the lake? - we sign up for a day trip to the lake. Perfect.

Khao Sok National Park

Pra Kai Petch cave

Lunch stop on the lake

Stunning kart formations

Drone shot Khao Sok National Park

Centered between Krabi and Phuket in Phang Nga Bay (Andaman Sea) are two large islands Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi. Given their prime location, it's hard to understand how these islands have yet to be (over) developed. Fear not, it's coming no matter how much the (predominantly Muslim) locals claim to be against it. Right now it’s still pretty much off the radar with a couple of luxury resorts, and plenty of affordable options. The speedboat leaves from Noppharat Pier in Ao Nang.

We decide to stay on the larger Koh Yao Yai, just because the speedboat from Krabi stops here and Baan Taranya Resort is offering an excellent deal.

21 euros with breakfast

A scooter is the best way to visit Koh Yao Yai

Yield to monitor lizards

Panang curry with chicken,

baked shrimp with glass noodles,

and yummy mango sticky rice - 12 euros for two, The Gala restaurant, Koh Yao Yai

Lam Haed Beach, Koh Yao Yai

A man cleaning up the beach, picks up a monster jellyfish. He says they don’t sting, but who wants to swim with that!

Crabs race around the beach

Klong Son Beach, Koh Yao Yai

Fresh grilled shrimp for lunch on the beach

A busy street, Koh Yao Yai

Fishing boats by Hin Kong Pier at Baan Taranya Resort, Koh Yao Yai

Hin Kong Pier in the evening.

From Chong Lard Pier we take a longboat to Koh Yao Noi. For $2 they load our scooter and in 10 minutes we're across. Low tide is so dramatic, you can practically walk.

This smaller island seems to have a bit more infrastructure and probably more nightlife but it's all pretty low key, especially off-season.

We stop to take a closer look at rubber sweating off trees into small white cups. We're so engrossed by the spectacle that we don't register the swarm of mosquitos until we are under attack. We race back to the bike screaming in pain as welts form on our skin!

Rubber plantation on Koh Yao Noi

At low tide, you can walk to the tiny island of Koh Nok. We watch from our lunch spot as a few people race against the incoming tide. It’s alarming how fast the sand disappears.

Tide cutting off the path to tiny Koh Nok

We go back to Phuket for a couple of nights at Hill Myna, a small cute hotel in Bang Tao away from the beach resorts and massive condo complexes that define Phuket. Most of the guests seem to be long-term, digital nomad types.

Hill Myna Holiday Park - 24 eu/night

Lunch at upscale Bartels Coffee, 18 euros, Phuket

There’s a swan in my cappuccino

Whole fish at Khumyaa restaurant - 11 euros, Phuket

We fly back to Bangkok, ducking in for a massage at Phuket Airport before departure.

Portraits of the King and Queen of Thailand at Phuket airport

Aerial views of Phuket

With a couple of days in Bangkok we hit the malls, great restaurants and food courts, and have at least one massage per day!

The Quarter Ploenchit, Bangkok - 38 euros/night

with see-thru bathroom

and rooftop pool

Breakfast at Café Tartine - 15 euros

The new Iconsiam mall across the river in Klong San

View of the river from the mall

Central Brussel’s famous viaduct Léopold II built in 1954, was gifted to Thailand in 1988 and is now called the Thai-Belgium Flyover Bridge.

One night in Bangkok

On this trip to Thailand we concentrated on Phuket, Krabi and the islands in between. While the scenery in the Andaman Sea is utterly spectacular, Phuket lives up to its reputation, Koh Phi Phi tops the list of places to avoid, and the laid-back beach scene in Koh Lanta is probably great for families in-season. Krabi offered similar landscapes to Phuket and an array of properties from cheap to luxurious, but the highlight there was Khao Sok National Park. And smack in the middle of the Andaman Sea, Koh Yao Yai and Koh Yao Noi are up and coming. Some will love them when there is more infrastructure, others will mourn the undisturbed nature. We like places that find the balance between both (read air conditioning and a decent cappuccino). But the things that keep us coming back to Thailand are the excellent price/quality ratio, sumptuous food and warm Thai hospitality everywhere. We are already planning our next trip.

A lot has changed since my last visit to Pokhara (starting point for Annapurna treks) in 1994, and at first I don’t recognize a thing. Paved streets are lined with restaurants, boutiques, hiking gear galore, and hundreds of hotels and guesthouses. The only place that feels slightly familiar is the lake where I fondly recall sipping beer with fellow backpackers.

A man selling flowers by the lake in Pokhara

We’ve organized a 9-day trek to Annapurna Base Camp, ABC for short. There is no set duration to trekking, but with our combined trekking history, factoring in our age and physical capabilities, and enough experience to know that you want to be finished for the day before it’s cold and dark, we create a flexible plan with https://www.polartreks.com to walk 4-5 hours a day with stops for tea, lunch and time to enjoy the spectacular scenery. The plan is 5 days to reach base camp and 4 days back.

We relish a couple more nights of varied food choices, and a super comfortable hotel room in Pokhara before setting off.

Ice-cold Belgian beer and

authentic Belgian fries at Frituur No. 1 in Pokhara

Hotel Murano, Pokhara 4800 Nepali rupees / $36 with breakfast

View of Annapurna South (l) and sacred mountain, Machhapuchhare - aka Fishtail (r), from the room

Sushi in Pokhara

Packing for the trek is simple. Warm layers, comfortable shoes, slip-ons for the lodges and showers, towel, water bottle, gloves, hat, sunscreen, sun glasses, etc. Do not take anything you don’t absolutely need - think of your porter. The trekking company has provided super warm sleeping bags, indispensable, adjustable walking sticks and crampons in case of icy conditions. Being prepared is essential. There are tons of blogs and websites if you need more help packing. We should have had warmer layers, but this was part of a longer trip in much hotter weather.

Day 1: Kande to Tolka
Our guide Bam, a skinny 30-something, and porter Harry, a jolly 50-something, pick us up at our hotel. The jeep drive is 90 minutes to the starting point, a tea stall on the side of the road in Kande. I’m a little nervous wondering if this is all going to be too difficult. While we sip tea and discuss details about the trip, a couple of Tibetan refugees approach with bags of bracelets. I’m too superstitious to say no.

Bam secures the load for Harry

The village of Kande, our starting point

The route

Within minutes of setting off, we’re breathing hard clambering up steep, stone steps, and Harry is the one carrying our packs!

When we stop for lunch in Pothana village, Bam reassures me that the first day is the hardest. I want to believe. Afterall, it’s just walking right?
Treks in the Annapurna region are notorious for the steps; up, up, up, down, down, down, over and over and over.

I could not be happier when we arrive at Hotel Namaste in Tolka (1600 meters / 5250 ft) after 4.5 hours of walking. The room is quite simple with two beds, bright green carpeting, and an attached bathroom with a hot shower. 750 NPR / $5.60. Dinner and breakfast for two about $20.





The views of Annapurna South are breathtaking, but as soon as the sun sets, it’s pitch black. We’re down for the night by 7pm.

Day 2: Tolka to Chhomrong

Locals on the trail between Tolka and Chhomrong

Looking back at where we came from

This is one of the most spectacular days given the crossing of two hanging bridges not mentioned in the planning phase; maybe that’s intentional. The first one over a river isn’t very long, and the old bamboo bridge it replaced makes it feel very safe.

The second bridge is visible from quite a distance and as a close friend remarked, “looks more like dental floss!” At 286 m / 938 ft long, and hanging about the same height above the valley, it’s scary but actually quite solid. If you’re afraid of heights, just fix your eyes on a point straight ahead.

The last mile, always the longest, is nothing but stairs and more stairs. After 6.25 hours of walking, we finally arrive in Chhomrong (2150 m / 7054 ft).

Panorama Point Lodge. Room with private bathroom and hot shower 1000 NPR / $7.50

The view of Annapurna South from the terrace at Panorama Point Lodge, Chhomrong

Meals are quickly falling into a set menu: porridge or eggs for breakfast, dal bhat (the traditional dish of rice, lentils and vegetable curry) for lunch, noodle soup and veg momos (dumplings) for dinner. With no heat, it’s so cold after 5pm, soup is the only way to warm up.

The menu, curated by Chhomrong Community Management, is the same at every lodge along the trek. The conversion rate is about 140 NPR for $1 USD, so 280 NPR = $2, 560 NPR = $4, etc. Prices increase with the altitude.

Dining room and charging station at Panorama Point Lodge

We eat, plug our phones, and head to the room by 6:45pm. I stuff clothes into the bottom of my sleeping bag, so they’ll be warm in the morning and zip myself in with a comforter on top and an extra one underneath. I still feel like I’m sleeping on a wood plank, because I am!

Day 3: Chhomrong to Bamboo
It is so toasty, I don’t want to get up!

Walking is tough today with endless steps up and down, but it would be much harder without the walking sticks. Truly a saving grace and essential gear if you are over 50. We pass many people on the trail. Everyone says, hello, asks where you’re from and how far you’re going. It is the end of the season and not too crowded.

A local tourist holding the uniquely shaped flag of Nepal, with Annapurna South in the background

An inspiring, elderly man navigating the endless steps

A Buddhist temple on the trail towards Bamboo, with Annapurna South in the distance

Absolutely everything is carried along these paths. During one water break, we chat with a guy transporting a heavy propane tank. He earns 20,000 NPR ($150) a month. I try to lift the basket but it does not budge!

Suddenly, bells are ringing and someone yells, “move!” Locals thunder by on horses, as if the terrain was smooth and flat. I only have time to catch this guy nonchalantly bringing up the rear.

Every tea house has a machine that uses reverse osmosis to purify water and eliminate the use of plastic bottles. It’s a little over a dollar per refill. We are drinking 3-4 litres a day. As we go higher and temperatures plummet, Bam recommends we drink warm rather than cold water. Very soothing.

After 5 hours of walking, we reach Hotel Greenview Bamboo Lodge (2300 m / 7545 ft). Room + two hot showers 1200 NPR/ $9.

The luxury of having a private bathroom is over. Mustering enthusiasm for the rudimentary shower a few doors down is quite the effort, but we take advantage of the boiling, hot water ($2) while we can.

Bam taking our dinner order in Bamboo to an indifferent labrador

The view of Annapurna South

Day 4: Bamboo to Deurali
We had planned to walk about 4-5 hours a day with lots of room for adjustment in case we were too tired, in pain, etc., but we’re very pleased with ourselves as we’re right on schedule, without incident.

The landscape on this stretch is completely different. The path winds around tall trees and knotted vines through a thick bamboo forest. With fewer stairs, it’s easier, but a layer of frost on the ground reminds us that now the altitude is a factor. The cheap gloves bought in Pokhara are not cutting it, so I try my angora socks as mittens and my fingers are warm for the rest of the trek. Tip: Don’t skimp on quality.

On the trail between Bamboo and Deurali

Even the leaves are getting cold

Water flows over the rocky mountainside by the temple

Looking back at the river below, where the day started in Bamboo

A Langur monkey monitors our progress.

Dal bhat for lunch at Himalaya village

A succulent seen only at higher elevations

Lunch comes with an unexpected treat - a professional Italian espresso machine! Imagine, someone lugged it up here!

Clouds are building just as we arrive at New Panorama Guesthouse in Deurali, 3200 m / 10499 ft. We’ve clocked 5.5 hours today.

Freezing cold room, New Panorama Guest House, 600 NPR /$4.50

Equally frigid dining room

Day 5: Deurali to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) with the option to sleep at Machhapuchhare Base Camp (MBC) if we cannot make it. Machhapuchhare, aka Fishtail (for the shape of its peak) is a stunning, sacred mountain designated off limits for climbers.

Machhapuchhare mountain

It’s 7AM when we set off from Deurali, and for the first time, the altitude is tangible. I should have eaten more for breakfast. Within a couple of hours, hunger and dizziness have taken over and each step is heavier as we approach Machhapuchhare Base Camp.

Walking along the river towards MBC

But food is fuel!

Lunch at Machhapuchhare Base Camp, 3700 m / 12140 ft, with a glorious view of Annapurna South

There’s some ice on the path so Bam fits crampons over our shoes for the homestretch. What a useful invention! The path from MBC to ABC is remarkably flat, compared to all the steps of the previous days, but the altitude is crushing. While we can see the base camp lodges in the distance, they feel like they are moving away.

Looking back at MBC as we make our way to ABC

Clouds rising from the Machhapuchhare valley below, as we to get closer to Annapurna Base Camp

Harry marching our bags towards ABC with rhythm and grace

After a bit over 6.5 hours of walking, we reach the iconic signpost welcoming us to ABC. To my surprise, I'm overwhelmed with emotion. I’m also frozen solid!

Annapurna Base Camp 4130 m / 13550 ft

Bam and Harry sipping tea at Annapurna Base Camp

We knew it would be cold here, but this is crazy. There is absolutely no heat whatsoever. In a lightbulb moment, we ask for hot water bottles and stuff them into our sleeping bags. Truly game-changing, though we still keep the several layers of clothes (have not changed in a few days), hats (have not removed in even more days), and gloves. We zip in leaving the smallest opening to breathe. Getting out of the cozy sleeping bag to go to the rudimentary, communal toilet is excruciating! Too cold for a photo of the room, but you get it.

Day 6: ABC back to Himalaya

The sun rising on Annapurna South at Annapurna Base Camp

View of ABC village

Now that we hit the goal, I'm ready to finish, but it’ll take 4 days to reach Pokhara. There's a thin layer of ice and flurries as we begin the descent. Muscles are sore and it’s harder on the knees. Every step is laser-focused; wouldn’t want to slip now. We’re retracing our steps, but it all looks different.

Cold, cold, cold on the way back towards MBC

Motivation is the espresso waiting in Himalaya village 6 hours away.

Fellow trekkers heading back from base camp

View of Machhapuchhare aka Fishtail

Himalaya Guest House, Himalaya, 2900 m / 9514 ft - Double room 600 NPR / $4.50

Day 7: Himalaya to Lower Sinowa 6.5 hours.
Absolutely everything at every lodge (they’ve stopped calling them tea houses now that they offer slightly more comfort) has been transported on the back of a skinny local, and more and more women. One can only watch in awe as they traverse the paths with ease.

A man hauling an oversized load

Others carrying heavy stones

from the stone quarry along the trail

A worker taking a break after cutting bamboo

Deliveries

In general, lodges at lower altitudes are more comfortable, so when we stop for the night at a less than appealing accommodation, despite my aching legs, I insist we push on to the next village where we are rewarded with a scalding hot shower, and homemade french fries with a beer by a soothing wood burning stove. The fire is a real treat as burning wood at higher altitudes is prohibited and we’ve had no heat for days.

A local carrying a tremendous load

Pretty flowers at Hotel Himal, Lower Sinuwa, 2000 m / 6562 ft

The room looks nice after 6.5 hours of walking

Day 8: Lower Sinuwa to Jhinu
I forgot just how many steps there are around Chhomrong. We are going down, but most of the day is spent climbing up!

A barefoot trekker…

A red-breasted Meadowlark

The mother of all loads!

Bam’s friend is getting married today in Chhomrong. We stop to catch our breath, I mean watch the festivities, and pose for pictures with the bride and groom.

A wedding in Chhomrong

The newlyweds

Eventually, we make our way down to Jhinu for our last night. We’ve walked a little under 4.5 hours and could easily get to the jeep pick-up point and return to Pokhara, but we're celebrating a birthday and Bam has ordered and carried a cake all afternoon for our final night together. We check-in to the brand new Jhinu Hotel Park Himalaya. At a whopping 1500 NPR / $11.25, the queen bed and attached bathroom feel luxurious.

Hotel Park Himalaya, Jhinu, 1700 m / 5577 ft

The entire hotel staff joins the party. The birthday boy is draped with flowers and a bright yellow shawl, and each person feeds him a forkful of cake. A very sweet custom and a wonderful way to end the trek.

Day 9 Jhinu to Pokhara.
The only thing separating us from the jeep pick-up point in Samrung is a long hanging bridge.

Jhinu Danda suspension bridge

But animals have the right of way!

View of the Samrung Jeep Station from the bridge

The jeep ride back to our hotel in Pokhara takes 3.5 hours.

The trek was a challenge in difficult conditions, but the sense of accomplishment, stunning scenery, and extremely hospitable people were a delight. I may have voiced “never again” several times during the trek, but I’m pretty sure I could be persuaded to go back.